Few do Chardonnay better than Michael Downer, and this is another cracker. The lion’s share of the fruit for this year’s Chardonnay comes from Murdoch Hill’s estate vineyards: the home vineyard in Oakbank and the newly acquired 8.5 hectares of vines in Lenswood. The balance is grown on sites Michael Downer has worked with for years in Lobethal and Piccadilly. All the sites share some common traits: high elevation, sustainable farming practices and vines over 20 years old.
The top block on the Oakbank property at a lofty 420 metres is home to Bernard clone vines and forms the backbone of this year’s blend at 60%. The Lenswood site, at 20%, brings an open and generous fruit profile, providing a lovely contrast to the more linear and tight nature of the high-altitude Piccadilly and Lobethal material that rounds out the blend.
According to Downer, 2024 was an “ideal season” with mild conditions in the runup to and during harvest. The Oakbank portion was destemmed while the rest of the fruit was pressed as bunches. Wild ferments and maturation occurred in puncheons and barriques (about 20% new). To build the back end, Downer let a significant portion of the wine go through malolactic fermentation while all parcels rested on gross lees for nine months, and some barrels were stirred. It’s classic Downer, with deft reduction, orchard fruits and citrus, mouthwatering savoury lines, a juicy core and a very tidy finish.