The limited production La Guiraude is Graillot’s tête de cuvée—made only in vintages where there are wines that exhibit particularly intense and ageworthy personalities. It’s a barrel selection, so the winemaking is the same as the classic Crozes, although the chosen casks age longer in both barrel and bottle. The Graillots are quick to point out that La Guiraude is not seen as a necessarily better wine than the domaine’s Crozes; instead, it is typically more powerful and can require longer cellaring.
The 2020 season was almost the complete opposite of 2021–warm and very dry–and Maxime Graillot’s decision to pick relatively early made a difference. He picked on 3rd September, roughly a week before the domaine’s neighbours started to harvest. It’s a deep, smouldering mini-Hermitage for the ages but nonetheless remains ‘classic’ and savoury in style. Alongside the classic markers of anise, black olive and smoky minerality, the 2020 is packed with ripe, compact fruit, impressive texture and powdery tannins. And once again, there’s a hint of Hermitage or even Cornas going on this year. It’s a Guiraude for the cellar and for the ages; if you are going to drink it young, grab the decanter, gather your finest friends and get a good-sized rib-eye on the BBQ!