Place of Changing Winds Tradition White 2022 (1500ml)

“I tasted this at the work table and I also had a couple glasses with dinner, so it passed the initial do-I-want-to-take-this-home test. The texture is beautiful, the body too, it brings flavour and a level of panache. Almost anything with roussanne in it has me at hello and then there’s chardonnay, the charms of which precede it, so to speak. This is my kind of white wine, unafraid of flavour, unafraid of fullness, sparked with spice, slippery with sweet, integrated oak, the flesh of yellow stonefruit laid on. For all the time I spent with it, I kept wanting the finish to extend out a fraction further, and for there to be a fraction less warmth. An extra year or two in bottle will likely deal with the former, and possibly the latter too. Either way, it’s a classy white wine.”

“Mid-light yellow colour, forward for its age, but the bouquet confirms that it's been wood aged and this has also added smoky charcuterie, spices and honey to result in a complex nose. The palate picks up the thread and delivers a rich full-bodied mouthful with roundness and viscosity, well judged phenolics contributing to the structure and texture, the finish rolling long and satisfying. This is a smashing Rhône-style dry white of great character and texture.”

“So the wine is two thirds a marsanne and roussanne blend and the rest a considered portion of chardonnay. Fancy oak, as is often the way of POCW, is also applied. I loved this from hello. Texture, weight, a slice of fresh cut, just ripe stone fruit acidity, a fuzz to the overall feel with some dollops of nougat amongst it all. Fragrant, full flavoured yet refreshing, a saline trill that speaks of minerality. It’s a cuddly wine with enough zestiness to refresh with each sip. Delicious drinking ensues.”

"The 2022 Tradition comprises Marsanne and Chardonnay from Harcourt, Macedon Ranges. It's gently golden in the glass, and aromatically, it leads with pineapple and white rose, cumin, star anise, aniseed and curry leaf, with custard powder and sea salt. It is rich and undulating and sort of caresses the palate rather than sits atop it. The acidity regulates the density of the fruit and balances the opulent (almost fat!) capaciousness of the wine. It's intriguing and great and feels very much as if it would go down a treat at a summer seaside venue. Excellent. I like it more and more as it opens up in the glass. 14% alcohol, sealed under Diam."