100% Cabernet Franc. Les Chapaudaises is in Bizay terroir, in the small village of Épieds, within half a kilometre of Saumur’s prized hill of Brézé. It’s next to Guiberteau’s monopole Clos de Guichaux, on the same sandy tuffeau limestone. The vines are a mix of Chenin Blanc and old-vine Cabernet Franc. One hectare of the Chenin is leased to Romain’s right-hand man, Brendan Stater-West, with the remaining Chenin finding its way into the Saumur Blanc. But it’s the 1948-planted Cabernet Franc that is Guiberteau’s prize here.
The fruit was destemmed and wild-fermented in concrete, then aged in conical Rousseau vats for one year before resting in a tank for six months. It’s a layered and elegant release, flush with crunchy red fruits, salty cured meats, earth, spice and smoky reduction, before a lithe but muscular palate moulded by sappy acidity and sinewy tannins. It finishes with Pinot-like finesse and lingering flavours of earth and pepper. It’s complex, evolving in the glass and gaining more depth and detail with time and air, and although it’s approachable now, it will improve for at least another five years (if you can wait that long).