Champagne Bérêche et Fils Brut Réserve Vieilles Vignes Non Filtrée NV (Base 19. Disg Sep 2023) (1500ml)

This cuvée has become synonymous with the kind of extreme quality that can today be expected from Champagne’s finest within the younger generation. The current release is based on the 2020 vintage and was disgorged in July 2023. Like its predecessor, the release comprises 65% fruit from the base vintage with the balance from the two previous years. The blend is split between 35% Pinot Noir from Montagne de Reims (specifically Ludes, Trépail and Ormes), 35% Chardonnay from sites across Montagne de Reims and Vallée de la Marne, and 30% Meunier from Mareuil-le-Port in Vallée de la Marne. The average vine age is 40 years.

The fruit is hand-harvested, followed by natural yeast fermentation in barrel, 24-36 months sur lattes in the Bérêche cellar, and finally, disgorgement by hand with just under 6 g/L dosage. This is the kind of fastidious attention to detail you would expect from the finest prestige cuvées, and it shines through in the quality of the wine. Antonio Galloni (Vinous) is spot-on when he writes: “Although most readers probably associate Bérèche with some of their higher-end bottlings, the Brut Réserve is a real rock star.” Simply, it’s one of the most compelling introductions to elite grower Champagne on the market.