From 1.15 hectares of old vines in the heart of Fourchaume and a small portion in L’Homme Mort at the northern end, this cuvée is a blend of three parcels of different aspects, age and rootstock. The core material dates from vines planted between 1959 and 1971; vines that gift a very vigorous and energetic expression of this Premier Cru. This year, the cuvée includes the harvest from Bessin’s emblematic lieu-dit, La Pièce au Comte (the parcel of the Count). Named after the local aristocrat who was once the landlord of this parcel, La Pièce au Comte was the Tremblay’s first vineyard holding in Chablis. Covering a single hectare, it lies in the heart of Fourchaume, and until 2014 its oldest vines were 80 years old (having been planted in 1934). These vines have since been replanted with massal selections, although the remainder of the vineyard is still old vines, dating from the 1950s. Raised in 30% old oak, the balance here is superb; a dazzling Chablis with a sleek texture, notes of white flowers, grapefruit bitters and brine, and a long, rocky, saline and citrus-tinged finish.