The domaine holds a priceless two hectares in Valmur, which makes it (we’re guessing) one of the largest holders of this Grand Cru, sited between Grenouilles and Les Clos. With the 1934 plantings in La Pièce au Comte now replanted, Valmur houses the domaine’s oldest vines, planted in 1947, along with some ‘younger’ material planted between 1962 and 1974 and another parcel between 1995 and 2000. Just as significant is the exposure: Bessin’s parcel lies on the southern side of Valmur, where the vines face northwest, bringing excellent structure and freshness to the wine and balancing this terroir’s natural power. The wine is raised mainly in stainless steel, with between 20% and 40% in barrel, depending on the vintage.
Aside from the apparent quality—it’s a stunningly radiant, long and pure Valmur reverberating with mineral energy—we must also comment on the pricing. Grand Cru white Burgundy from a great grower at this price? Get it while you can. Crafted from yields of just 25 hl/ha, it’s packed with pure, textured fruit, with notes of golden delicious, grapefruit and plenty of spice. There is also terrific tension here, some grip, and impeccable length.