Domaine Bernard Defaix Chablis 1er Cru Côte de Léchet Sans Soufre 2022

Diam. Much like the rest of Burgundy, Chablis’ finest vineyards have, for better or worse, become synonymous with a symbolic grower. This is the case with the Côte de Léchet and Domaine Bernard Defaix. With nine hectares of vines overlooking the village of Milly, the domaine is the largest single holder within this 1er Cru, and its cellars sit at the base of the Léchet hill. Didier Defaix is, therefore, the vineyard’s emblematic vigneron—as well as the site’s only certified-organic grower.

Perfectly exposed to the southeast, Jasper Morris MW describes an archetypal wine from Léchet as “Entirely white fruited in style …not dissimilar to Beauroy, but with more intensity”, while Andrew Jefford suggested the hill gifts “some of the most 'mineral' Chablis of all”. In 2022, you get the best of all these, even if there is an extra dollop of fruit sweetness compared to a classical vintage. Taking advantage of the vineyard’s intensity and to build complexity, Didier Defaix ferments a quarter of this wine in old, neutral barrels which previously housed Defaix’s old-vine Reserve Léchet bottling. 

Sans soufre is French for ‘without sulphur’, and Didier Defaix has worked on zero sulphur trials for many years. After overwhelmingly positive feedback from his clients, he was convinced to bottle a separate, unfiltered wine from the 2022 vintage. Like the regular bottling, it’s a fleshy and seamless Côte de Léchet with oodles of mixed citrus, chalky drive and mouthwatering freshness. Built for younger drinking, it’s doggone delicious Chablis to enjoy over the next three years.