Les Pargues is a Chablis lieu-dit situated on a ridge between the Montmains and Vosgros Premiers Crus. It has the same exposure as Vaillons and Montmains, so it’s a very handy site. The story goes that it was initially classified as a 1er Cru vineyard (pre-AOC) before being largely abandoned during the war when there was a labour shortage. This meant that when the AOC was formed, it missed out on the status it deserved. Regardless of the accuracy of this story, locals rightly speak very highly of this site: the position and thin, stony soils give a wine that’s intense and mineral.
Contributing to the quality of this wine is the vine age in Moreau’s tiny parcel (on average 50-plus years old) and the meagre yields they give (15-25 hl/ha is typical). Vinified with 20% barrels, it’s a sleek and succulent wine with ripe pear and chamomile and vibrant, mouth-watering acidity that balances out the flowing, silky textured fruit. Finishes with typical Chablisien stony focus and chalky tautness.