Although this wine is 100% Vouvray it is not permitted to be labelled as such because it is fermented and aged across the river in Montlouis. The AOC law states that if a wine is to be labelled Vouvray, it must be matured within the boundaries of Vouvray itself, and so Chidaine, with cellars in nearby Montlouis, has been forced to drop the use of the Vouvray AOC from his labels. In addition, the word ‘clos’ cannot be applied to a Vin de France! So, for now, the wine that should be known as Clos Baudoin Vouvray—for the legendary vineyard where it is grown—is currently simply sold as ‘Baudoin’.Regardless, as followers will know, since purchasing the Clos in 2001, Chidaine’s biodynamic management has reset Clos Baudoin on its throne as one of the few ‘Grand Cru’ Vouvray vineyards. (The Clos was once the origin of the fabled Prince Poniatowski Vouvrays). On the crest of a hill and elevated over the surrounding countryside, the Clos Baudoin vineyard is 2.7 hectares in size with an average vine age of over 70 years. The soils are clay and limestone, with a deep limestone (tuffeau) subsoil.