Domaine François Chidaine Montlouis Les Choisilles 2020

Les Choisilles is named after the type of black flint abundant in the parcels that gift this wine. The main vineyards involved are Les Epinais, La Taille aux Loups and Clos Renard. The bedrock across these sites is tuffeau (limestone), and the vines range in age from 30 to 90 years. Chidaine notes that these deep-rooted vines transmit an elegant minerality from the black flint soils.

Made in the same way as the Clos de Breuil, this feels almost dainty by comparison. It opens with honeysuckle, white peach and yellow pastille infused by the salinity and mineral nuance we so often find in this wine. The palate is supple and long, the flavour rich and the texture laced with tension. It finishes with sweeping, glossy citrus, lingering minerality and grip. Les Choisilles can sit on the quiet side when young. Not this time; it’s so delicious and will drink well from the get-go. It’s another shoo-in for Southeast Asian flavours.