Swinney’s 2021 Syrah was hand-harvested from a selection of parcels planted to a range of clones, including 470, Waldron and Jack Mann’s heritage massale selection of Syrah. Unlike the Grenache and Mourvèdre, the Syrah is trellised (although there are plans afoot for some single-stake Syrah in the future). Although the Frankland River is cool-climate continental, Swinney also uses shade cloth for the Shiraz on the western side, creating a soft, mottled light to protect the skins and lower the temperature in the bunch zone.
In the winery, the berries were sorted and emptied into small wooden and stainless-steel fermenters via gravity. A barely noticeable 22% whole-bunch component was integrated to build structure. The 2021 spent 12 days on skins before being pressed directly to fine-grained, 600-litre demi-muids (12% new) for 11 months.
For Mann, 2021 was a near-perfect year for Syrah; an observation that is borne out in a sensational and deeply scented wine that effortlessly fuses power and finesse. It’s a coiled and striking wine, redolent with peppery spice, silky blue fruit and smoked meat. There’s just a touch of whole-bunch freshness, and the entire package seamlessly integrates with chalky tannins and impressive palate weight. That Swinney’s Syrah has been described by one writer as “more Hermitage than Grange” gives you a clue where the quality level is pitched. Once again, this wine’s trademark elegance, purity and power are on song—to find such quality and class at this price is a rare bird indeed.