Vins de la Madone Côtes du Forez Migmatite 2022

The Migmatite is drawn from a 50-year-old parcel of low-yielding Gamay on the Migmatites du Montbrison—granite covered in sand and clay mixed with migmatite (igneous/metamorphic rock). This soil type extends to just 25 hectares of the current plantings across the Côtes du Forez. While it’s said to be responsible for producing lighter styles of wine, Bonnefoy’s derisory yields of only 25 hl/ha ensure charming depth to go with the region’s refreshing persona. The grapes were hand-harvested, followed by whole-cluster, semi-carbonic fermentation (à la Beaujolais) with native yeasts. Aging was in stainless-steel cuve, and the wine was bottled with minimal SO2.

The palate is fabulously enticing, with waves of crunchy red fruit and smoky/green pepper spice (a feature of this site, according to Bonnefoy) alongside a wash of acidity that lifts the long, refreshing finish. Very lucid, very Gamay and—while there is something old-school, rocky and almost Brouilly-esque—the wine remains super bright and pure.