Pete Schell’s Papillon was one of the first of the mod-Barossa wines to show that ripeness and depth of flavour needn’t come at the expense of freshness and vineyard clarity. All these years later it remains at the very top of its game—if anything, it has never been in better form.
This year’s wine was drawn from two exceptionally old vineyards, both dry-grown bush-vine sites. The Grenache (the lion’s share at over 70% of the blend) comes off circa-1890 vines rooted in deep, coarse sandy soil. This parcel was naturally fermented with 50% whole bunches for heightened fragrance and freshness. The Cinsault, again from pre-Great-War vines (1910), grows in a red clay terroir. Each vineyard was hand harvested when just ripe to ensure natural acids, freshness and spice and, that the edgier tannins were preserved. The fruit was de-stemmed and fermented as whole berries.