At its best, Lagrein can produce some of the Alto Adige’s most striking reds, and this is one such example. Drawn from vineyards within the sandy Bassa Atesina terroir (a canton of the mountainous Südtiroler Unterland), this fine example is raised in large wooden barrels and concrete vats for five months.
It’s a gorgeous, accessible red, with an enticing mix of radiant black fruit and spice, alongside pencil-shaving and graphite notes. Though only 12.5 percent alcohol, the same exuberance plays out on the fleshy, supple palate featuring integrated tannins, lively acidity and a vibrant finish. Begs the question: why aren’t more people talking about Lagrein? Would be even more delicious with a juicy leg of lamb or braised beef shin.