Biodynamic. The Côtes du Forez lies on an ancient geological fault line near the source of the Loire Valley, in France’s Massif Central. The Gamay grape thrives in the volcanic soils here, and it is this potential that Gilles Bonnefoy saw in the mid-1990s, when he set up his estate. He now cultivates eight hectares of hillside vineyards, which he converted to organic farming in 2001, and biodynamics in 2009. Memoire de Madone is crafted from the estate’s oldest plots of Gamay: 50-year-old vines rooted in the basalt soils of the Massif Central, with yields that come in as low as 25 hl/ha.