Biodynamic. Hélène Thibon’s small-batch white comes from a blend of low-cropped, hand-harvested Roussanne, Viognier and Clairette. This year there’s more Roussanne than usual (barrel-fermented and zero malo). The Viognier was raised entirely in cement and stainless-steel vats, while the Clairette was fermented in Stockinger demi-muids.
The 2021 is brimming with heightened aromatics of florals, yellow stone fruits and perfumed top notes, with a hint of toasted nuts. On the palate, lovely orange citrus flavours dovetail with a skinsy note, while a rush of refreshing acidity imparts structure and provides mouth-cleansing balance. With each year, this invigorating, pulpy white seems to offer ever more value.
For those interested, the name Cave Vinum is a play on the Latin phrase Cave Canem (beware of the dog) that adorned the entrance of certain ‘well-to-do’ Pompeii residences. Nothing to beware of here, though, save for the limited nature of the release. Thibon suggests serving this with, “… chèvre cheese, or classic Mediterranean fish dishes. This is a white wine that can hold its own against a bit of garlic (though don’t get carried away).” Bon appétit.