Sandrone’s Dolcetto is, with good reason, one of the finest, most complex examples of the region. The consistent quality of this wine—its purity, silky texture, fine tannins and balance—can only come with perfectly ripe fruit from top sites. In this case, the sites are also high-altitude, which brings added freshness to the layers of fruit. From estate vineyards in Monforte d’Alba, Sandrone draws from Castelletto and Cascina Pe Mol. The latter sits at the top of the ridge leading from Monforte d’Alba to the hamlet of Perno and is among the highest vineyards of the region. In Novello, there are the Rocche di San Nicola vineyards and the whitish marls of Ravera—where the easterly exposure contributes perfume and aromatic complexity. Joining these sites is fruit from Rivassi and Crosia in the commune of Barolo. Another key to the quality is the age of the vines, now averaging over 50 years.
There are typically 11 different parcels contributing to the blend, with any fruit not making the grade sold off. Each parcel is vinified separately before blending and the wines are aged in tank. It’s a super bright and aromatic release loaded with red and blue fruit flecked with savoury spices. It revels in vibrant midweight appeal, and the finish is long and deliciously crunchy. In short, this is about as close as Dolcetto comes to Nebbiolo-level depth and class.