This wine comes from the 1er Cru section of Morey’s Monts Luisants vineyard, much of which is AOC Clos de la Roche today. Ponsot labels it Cuvée des Alouettes (alouette is a lark) to differentiate it from the white wine that comes from this lieu-dit (the 1er Cru Clos des Monts Luisants Blanc). This section of the vineyard is now ploughed by horse. The vines are between 23 and 30 years old and rooted in white oolite limestone, historically giving a deep, slow-to-unwind red Burgundy that becomes a vivid, flowing Chambolle-esque 1er Cru after around 10 years in the bottle. Of course, with climate change, all bets are off, and we are seeing this terroir offer far more open, delicious young expressions of Morey. Nonetheless, it is a place that borders Gevrey and so shows some of that village’s depth and structure. This 2020 is a vibrant, red-fruited, juicy red Burgundy that’s both bright and mineral. Again, you would never pick the vintage. It has the intensity and fine structure to live a long time.