Biodynamic. La Calade is the Mourvèdre-dominant cuvée of the Mas de Libian line-up, finessed by 10% Grenache—a unique wine that we believe deserves a wider audience. Granted, it is labelled as a humble Côtes du Rhône, yet it offers the depth and class usually associated with a top Gigondas, Rasteau or Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Calade is old Provençal patois for a steep, stony path, which gives you an insight into the terroir for this wine. It comes from a very low-yielding parcel of 50-year-old vines (grown in galets roulés) that run between 1.5 and three metres deep. Almost half of this wine is vinified in glass and porcelain jars, which Hélène believes brings more freshness than oak or steel, as well as helping to avoid reduction. The remainder sees time in 600L Stockinger demi-muids (oak is the servant, not the master) and cement.
The 2021 is a compelling wine with livewire energy, cool freshness, perfumed elegance and densely concentrated and complex flavours. Finely woven aromas of bright fruits, earth, pepper spice and some salty minerality are jointed to beautifully integrated oak, acidity and al dente tannins; it strikes an impressive balance. In our experience, few Mourvèdre wines from the south combine refreshment and satisfaction like this. It will taste even better with a light decant and a ribeye cooked over flame.