Place of Changing Winds Harcourt Syrah 2022 (1500ml)

“50% whole bunch; two years in oak. An intense and utterly compelling wine, driven by the spice and outright perfume on the nose; then the elegant and medium body, with a minimum of 30 years riding on its superfine tannins and balance; the rare granitic sands are the key. 2642 bottles, 60 magnums produced.”

“Deep and bright purple-red colour, with nutmeg and assorted spices on the nose, the palate medium full-bodied and smoothly textured, with a slight ferrous bitterness on the aftertaste, and a slight dip in the middle, accentuated by the grip on the finish. This is young and somewhat undeveloped: it promises more if cellared a while.”

“From a vineyard in Harcourt North which is in Bendigo wine region. Wild fermentation, spends time in Stockinger, larger format barrels, gets 50% whole bunches in the ferment. The site is specified for its sand and granite soil profile. Highly perfumed, red berries, some cranberry zestiness, wild scree and herbs in a pepper-meets-alpine greenery kind of whiff, some aniseed, touch of clove. It sits at medium weight, slinks along all pretty within a web of lacy, talc-like tannin and finishes with lightly puckering dryness. Almost dart-shaped and feels good for it. Flavours match the bouquet, per se. It’s delicious, fine and right.”

“What I love about this is its savoury heart and texture – yes, heady aromatics as it’s syrah after all (and 50% whole bunches in the fermentation), so it’s perfumed with violets, dark plums and warm baking spices with wafts of licorice and hot bitumen, stony even. The palate thrills. Full bodied, rich and densely packed with flavour but also grainy tannins. It’s structured and detailed, filling yet never seems weighty.”