Katharina Prüm describes her 2021 Kabinetts as textbook examples. Harvested between mid- and late October, all the wines are superb, and while we might have personal favourites, each wine offers gazelle-like elegance, vibrant, crystalline fruit, thrilling acidity and a clear expression of its vineyard’s personality. As usual, the power builds from Badstube to Graacher to Wehlener, with the Graacher and Wehlener, in particular, showing the aging potential of this vintage. Overall, the wines taste remarkably dry. Although they will mostly be drunk young, these will be much better after five to 10 years, and 20 years will not weary them. 2021 is a classic aging vintage. The low-alcohol 2021s could effortlessly stand up to a broad range of flavours: sashimi, lighter Asian dishes and tuna tartare, for example. But basically, any seafood or white meat, and of course, they make beautiful aperitifs.