Jonathan Didier Pabiot Pouilly Fumé Florilège 2019

Biodynamic. Florilège is Jonathan Didier Pabiot’s calling card, an assemblage of mature vines rooted in the estate’s three key soil types: caillottes, terres blanches and silex. The lieux-dits are Les champs de Cris, Les Asserts, Villiers and Les Champs Piot, all densely planted at 10,000 vines per hectare. To make a wine of this depth and character, Pabiot crops his vines at 30 hl/ha.

The winemaking here takes on more intricacy, with 90% of the crop fermented and raised in concrete cuve and stainless steel and 10% barrel-fermented juice blended in for complexity. This cuvée spent at least 12 months on lees to build texture and retain freshness.

Expect a wine of engaging citrussy clarity to go with its succulent lees-derived texture, subtle stony minerality and a nip of phenolics to grip the palate. The cool nights of the 2019 harvest helped keep the freshness locked, and it finishes with a lick of limestone salinity and fine tension. It’s packed with character, detail and sheer drinking pleasure.