Biodynamic. Prédilection comes from a parcel of vines planted on terres blanches, or Kimmeridgian marl. Sited close to the cellar in Les Loges, this beautiful, steep and terraced vineyard was planted by Didier Pabiot, and the old vines now average 50 years of age. With an active lime content of over 70%, these vines struggle on the very poor soil and beget a saltier, more coiled style than the Aubaine. Again, yields are meagre, 28 hl/ha in this case.
The result is a luminous, mouth-filling yet focused Pouilly of dynamic depth and chiselled character. It’s a statement wine, resonating with a level intensity and length of flavour seldom seen in the region. Pulsating with energy and coiled flavours, this is a marginal step up on the fabulously expressive 2018. It sings with a purity of fruit, wet rock mineral expression, threads of salinity and a lick of green herbs. So generous in flavour and classic limestone drive, flashes of citrus, tangy acidity and phenolic tension push this to the limit of the Pouilly Fumé appellation.