Jonathan Didier Pabiot Pouilly Fumé Prélude 2020

Biodynamic. Cropped from the domaine’s younger vines, Prélude is the first Pouilly in the range. Even at this level, shrewd yields and precise farming elevate this above the norm. Established only in 2018, this is the only wine in the range one might pick as a varietal Sauvignon, yet there is ample intensity and texture to balance.

From a selection of lieux-dits, the vineyards cover the gamut of Pouilly’s soil types (including, limestone, silica and flint). The grapes were primarily whole-bunch pressed with some crushing for structure, and aging took place in stainless steel tanks on the lees, for between six and eight months.

Styled for early drinking—which is not always the case at this domaine—expect pure aromas of fresh orchard fruits, white florals and a whisper of wet pebble minerality. It’s a high-impact Pouilly-Fumé, intensely flavoured with stone fruits, minerality and an appealing back-note of grapefruit bitterness. The lengthy finish is driven by mouth-watering chalky acidity.