This North African Syrah (for which the Graillot family consults) just gets better. It hails from the Atlantic-influenced hills of Morocco’s Zenata region, in the lee of the spectacular Middle Atlas Mountains. Fresh ocean breezes and a mix of red and black clay over a base of limestone and ancient ocean-bed remnants provide the right conditions for scented, juicy Syrah that Graillot believes showcases Morocco's surprising potential.
The backstory is that Alain Graillot was cycling in Morocco (hence the tandem bike and palm tree on the label) when he stopped off at Domaine des Ouled Thaleb, 40 kilometres inland from the Atlantic Ocean. A conversation with the domaine's then-oenologist, Jacques Poulaine, and a close look at sites in Rommani and Benslimane convinced Graillot of the potential for producing highly elegant Syrah. The towns of Rommani and Benslimane lie between Casablanca on the Atlantic Ocean and the Middle Atlas. As such, there is a relatively cool climate thanks to the ocean breezes and an altitude of about 500 metres.
The Syrah vines are between 10 and 40 years old (average 25 years). Overseen by Stéphane Mariot, the vineyard work is meticulous, with goblet pruning, hand-weeding, hand-ploughing and no herbicide or fungicide treatments used. The grapes are 100% destemmed and fermented in closed concrete vats. The wine matured for 15 months, first in tank and then in large oak casks imported from Burgundy (from François Frères).
The 2012 has more oomph than recent vintages–it’s bright and vibrant with a silky core of dark cherry and purple fruits, classy oak and sandalwood spice notes. There is lots of interest and fruit depth, yet the finish is clean, fresh, perfumed and long. Terrific. You don't have to accompany it with a tagine, but your guests will probably appreciate it if you make the effort!