Vino de parcela. Just over one hectare in size, El Esquilón is a north-facing parcel on rocky volcanic soil, and was planted to ungrafted Listán Negro vines in the 1930s and 1950s. There is also a little existing Listán Blanco (100 years old). In 2000, Tintilia (the baby of the vineyard) was planted on its own rootstocks. Tintilia is thought by some to be Jura’s Trousseau, although winemaker Jonatan García now doubts this is the case. The 2019 blend weighs in at 90% Listán Negro and, unusually for this producer, in this wine García uses 100% whole bunches. Fermentation occurs in concrete, and the wine ages for 14 months in 500L neutral demi-muids. Bottled unfiltered.
Bright and energetic, the 2019 is beautifully ripe, with fine purity and enticing depth. It’s elegance and effortless flow are matched by assertive structure and intensely fresh and bold flavours culminating in a lingering, lengthy and layered close. A great challenge to stop at one glass.