Organic. It is perhaps surprising to recall that the first recorded mention of Chianti—via the correspondence of Tuscan merchant Francesco di Marco Datini in 1398—referred to a white wine. It was evidently an important category back in the day. Today, while Tuscan whites are still struggling to find their mojo, Corzano’s Il Corzanello shows how much potential there is for delicious vino bianco grown on the rocky slopes of the Colli Fiorentini.
This eclectic blend combines organically grown Semillon, Petit Manseng, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Trebbiano and Malvasia from the gravelly, clay- and limestone-rich soils of San Casciano. The grapes are pressed as whole bunches before fermenting with indigenous yeasts, with the wine raised simply in steel tanks. Each variety is vinified and aged separately, on its lees, before blending, and Arianna Gelpke blocks malolactic conversion to ensure as much racy tension as possible.
Without any variety dominating, it is pure, textural and fresh with whispers of white-peach sweetness speckled by spring leaf, citrus and white flowers. There is plenty of vinous drive and a twinkle of minerals, while the finish carries a nip of phenolic, quinine-like grip. It works as well with grilled fish as with a goat’s cheese tart.