In his book The New California Wine, Jon Bonné wrote of a revolution in the industry. He tells the stories of innovative and dynamic young producers making wine against the grain in reaction to the overly technocratic, homogenous approach on which the state had built its modern wine reputation. Bonné subjects were producers writing California’s future. One such producer is Birichino.

Drawing on a combined four decades of making wine in California, France and Italy, John Locke and Alex Krause (pictured) founded Birichino in Santa Cruz in 2008. They met in the early ‘90s while working at revolutionary standard-bearer (and incubator for future mutineers) Bonny Doon. Randall Grahm’s quixotic nature facilitated a creative and slightly chaotic realm in which John and Alex were challenged to “engage and stimulate as many sensory receptors as possible” through their wines. It’s an ethos they’ve carried through to their own estate. They left Bonny Doon and started Birichino with a pick-up truck, one customer and a vague plan. For the first two vintages, they made just one wine (Malvasia Bianca) for two customers.

They steadily increased production and now make more than 30 small-batch wines from several carefully farmed, family-owned, own-rooted 19th and early 20th-century vineyards. These are planted on interesting soils, predominantly in moderate climates with a marine influence. Thankfully, the number of customers has also increased. Their reach spans hundreds of kilometres and the gamut of varieties. Fruit is sourced from the southern reaches of Santa Barbara all the way up to the Napa Valley—making Birichino’s harvest particularly hectic—and they do everything from Sémillon to Zinfandel. They make wine according to a three-pronged precept: they must not be boring; they must be impeccably clean; and they must not fatigue the drinker. Their adherence to these principles can be tasted in these characterful, vibrant, pure wines.

Alex and John don’t own any of their sites but work with some of California’s best low-yielding, old-vine vineyards. And we mean old—as far back as 1866 in some cases. They have close relationships with 15 or so growers, mostly family-run, multi-generational operations with excellent old-vine material. They prefer organic viticulture and work closely with their growers. However, their “peanut gallery comments” aren’t generally required, says Alex; these growers have already been doing the right things for years. They pay more for fruit managed to their organic specifications, and picking decisions are theirs alone. Harvest stretches them in distance and time; they pick early-ripeners in mid-August, and the last grapes arrive in late October. With vineyards from Napa to Santa Barbara, they can cover more than 40,000 kilometres during vintage. They call it dedication…

Birichino seeks restraint and elegance in all the wines, picking early to capture complexity and distinction, chasing high-toned aromas and bright acidities. Alex and John intervene as little as possible in the cellar. They favour: spontaneous ferments in stainless steel or neutral wood; no cold soaks; light, infrequent punch-downs; minimal racking and fining; no filtration; and only light use of sulphur. The reds are not overly tannic, and new wood is avoided wherever possible. Of their 600 barrels, just two are new—sitting empty until the boys talk themselves into using them. If you’re looking for a common thread across the Birichino wines, it’s the unique expression of site and this hands-off approach to production. These wines showcase their place and people, bringing mischief and a little mayhem to the table.

Birichino (biri-KEE-no) translates from Italian to ‘mischievous’ in English.