International Fine Wines
International Fine Wines
International Fine Wines
International Fine Wines

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier

Outstanding Earth-to-Glass Grower Champagne from a Biodynamic Tour de Force

Pierre Larmandier told us a funny story. He had received a call from the owner of a one-star restaurant in Epernay with a request to pour Larmandier-Bernier by the glass. Pierre was curious—this restaurant had hardly been an ambassador for the wines of the best growers. Why the sudden call? “Well,” the owner explained, “I have a young sommelier who has just returned from Australia, and now he insists that we pour Larmandier-Bernier!” Who would have thought that the Australian wine scene would one day awaken the restaurants of Champagne to the glories of great grower wines? But there you go.

Larmandier-Bernier is a foundational grower on several levels. Of course, Larmandier-Bernier was one of the pioneers in organics/biodynamics and of what many today call the grower revolution in Champagne. Yet, it has also been a foundational estate in the Australian trade—it was likely the first great grower producer many of us tasted back in the day. Larmandier-Bernier, along with Egly-Ouriet, helped shape the Champagne market we now enjoy by winning listings and pours at many benchmark restaurants. All this at a time (almost 15 years ago now) when pouring Champagne without a famous brand name was simply not done. Larmandier-Bernier helped change all that. And they continue to help shape the market today—even in Épernay.
Such purity and minerality could only come from the impeccably tended vineyards of a man Laurent d'Harcourt, MD of Pol Roger, dubbed “The Ayatollah of quality” (he clearly knows the man well).

This estate is meticulously run by Pierre Larmandier and his wife, Sophie. Pierre’s family has owned vineyards in the Côte des Blancs since the Revolution, and Pierre took over the vines from his mother in 1988. He stopped using herbicide in 1992, then went organic, and today, the estate is also farmed biodynamically—extremely rare in Champagne, where only 2% of the vineyard surface is certified organic. The estate is now 18 hectares, predominantly in Vertus, at the southern tip of the Côte des Blancs, yet there are also holdings in Cramant, Chouilly, Oger and Avize. There is a predominance of old vine parcels—50, 60, and even 70 years old—again, something that is very rare in Champagne. This naturally keeps the yields low by Champagne standards, at 50 hl/ha on average.

In the winery, the approach is classically “minimalist” with indigenous yeasts, long, slow ferments of up to two months and very little sulphur. Various fermenting and aging vessels are used, including large oak vats and, more recently, some amphorae. Very low dosage levels are designed to be as neutral as possible. Sometimes, as is the case in the Terre de Vertus, there is no dosage at all. In other words, everything is designed to maximise the expression of the vineyard, commune and vintage. The resulting wines are wonderful expressions of their origins: fine and vinous, yet with a mineral intensity that keeps you coming back to the glass, sip after sip. In his book Champagne [Ten Speed Press], Peter Liem wrote: “Larmandier-Bernier is one of the finest estates in the Côte des Blancs, producing wines of unusual detail and clarity of expression. The style is for champagnes that are dry, minerally and terroir-driven, emphasizing purity and finesse over richness or sheer power.”

Like other benchmark growers, this producer keeps evolving and reaching greater heights. The wines still have the energy and intense minerality they have always offered, and now there is even more depth, detail and complexity. In part, this is due to an increase in the lees aging cycle, which the Larmandiers deem essential to the expression of their wines. For some time, Pierre and Sophie Larmandier have also indicated their wish to age their Champagnes for even longer before release, and the new underground maturation cellar grants them this opportunity.

The Range

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Latitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 19. Disg. Sep 23) (1500ml)
$408.00
Added

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Latitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 19. Disg. Sep 23) (1500ml)

Base 2021, Disg. April 2024. Latitude is 100% Côte des Blancs Chardonnay from vineyards on the southern side of Vertus. These vineyards are on roughly the same latitude, hence the name, which also hints at the breadth of texture that wines from these sites—having more clay in the soil—tend to offer. In the cellar, Larmandier uses mostly large casks (almost all the wood now comes from Stockinger in Austria). Fermentation and malolactic fermentation take place naturally, and there is no filtration. Latitude matures in bottle for more than two years before disgorgement and dosage at low, extra-brut levels (in this case, 3 g/L) at least six months before release. This bottling is based on the 2021 vintage, with 40% reserve wine drawn from a ‘perpetual’ reserve started in 2004. Upcoming releases will include fruit from some terrific vineyards in Villeneuve and Bergères, which will only further buttress the quality.

“The NV Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Latitude 1er Cru is bright, punchy and full of mineral-driven intensity. Crushed flowers, lemon peel, sage, mint and crushed rocks build as this potent, intensely saline Champagne opens in the glass. This is impressive. As always, the Latitude is a Champagne built on textural breadth and volume, typical of wines from the southern sector of Vertus. This release is based on 2019 and 40% a perpetual reserve that goes back to 2004. Dosage is 3 grams per liter.”
94 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Latitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 19. Disg. Sep 23) (1500ml)
$408.00
Added
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Grand Cru Vieille Vigne du Levant 2014 (Disg. Sep 23)
$474.00
Added

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Grand Cru Vieille Vigne du Levant 2014 (Disg. Sep 23)

Disg. Sep 23. First released in 1998, long before the concept of single-vineyard Champagnes became popular, this Blanc de Blancs was historically labelled Vieille Vigne de Cramant. Little has changed, save for the name, which is now inspired by 1960-planted Bourron du Levant, the vineyard from which most of the grapes come. The balance comes from a 0.5-hectare holding in the neighbouring terroir Le Fond du Bâteau (with 85-year-old vines).Both plots are at the heart of Cramant’s southeast-facing slopes on the flanks of the Butte de Saran. Basking in the first rays of the morning sun, these vineyards give wonderfully ripe, layered wines. The old vines’ deep root system combines with the terroir to bring a wine of glowing density and opulence. It offers a fascinating, concentrated and stone-fruited contrast to the other Larmandier cuvées (not to mention other producers’ Cramant wines). It remains a super-mineral wine, but you have more flesh, weight and body here.The winemaking is similar across each of Larmandier’s single-terroir wines. Here, it is spontaneous fermentation and malolactic fermentation, 12 months in large Stockinger barrels and no filtration. This cuvée, however, spends at least eight years in bottle on lees. The 2014 was disgorged with 2 g/L dosage.

“The newly released 2014 Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Vieille Vigne du Levant unwinds in the glass with aromas of crisp stone fruit, freshly baked bread, white flowers, buttery pastry and clear honey. Full-bodied, pillowy and chiseled, with a sweet core of fruit, tangy acids and a penetrating, electric finish, it's a terrific success.”
95 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
“The 2014 Extra Brut Vieilles Vignes de Levant Grand Cru is a gorgeous, vinous Champagne. It emerges from 60-to-80-year-old vines on Cramant's east-facing slope. Tangerine peel, hazelnut, spice, menthol and dried flowers are all signs of a Champagne that has arrived at its peak of maturity. Even so, the balance here is exquisite. Readers seeking Champagne with a bit of bottle-age complexity will adore this. Dosage is 2 grams per liter. Disgorged: September 2023.”
94 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Grand Cru Vieille Vigne du Levant 2014 (Disg. Sep 23)
$474.00
Added
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Grand Cru Les Chemins d'Avize 2016 (Disg. Apr 2024)
$474.00
Added

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Grand Cru Les Chemins d'Avize 2016 (Disg. Apr 2024)

Disg. Apr 2024. Les Chemins d’Avize debuted in 2009. For this cuvée, the Larmandier family vinifies fruit from two tiny plots in the heart of Avize (Chemin de Plivot, planted in 1955, and Chemin de Flavigny, planted in 1960). Both are chalky parcels with very little topsoil and lie on the lower slopes of Avize, not far from Agrapart and Selosse’s La Fosse vineyard. “Initially, it was really tough for the vines to grow here, the soil is so hard,” Arthur Larmandier told us. “Now, they make really, really great wines.” The winemaking is similar to the other cuvées, save for the use of smaller, neutral barrels due to the smaller quantities of wine produced. The wines age in bottle for a minimum of five years and are then disgorged by hand with only 2 g/L dosage. It’s a stunning, racy example of Avize, a little deeper than Terre de Vertus, though more delicate and less fleshy than this grower’s Vieille Vigne du Levant.

“The 2016 Blanc de Blancs Les Chemins d'Avize, disgorged in April 2024 with a dosage of two grams per liter, is a particular success. Hailing from Le Chemin de Flavigny and Le Chemin de Plivot, located in a flat part of Avize at the bottom of the slope, these are some of the last plots to be harvested, as the fruit ripens more slowly here. Vinified in 20-hectoliter Stockinger vat and barrels of various sizes, it was matured on its lees for 10 months. Informed by the concentration of 50-year-old vines, lower-than-average yields due to mildew pressure and a late-ripening season, it opens from the glass with aromas of marzipan, baked bread, lemon zest and beeswax. Elegantly muscular and vividly chalky, it’s layered and harmonious, underpinned by bright acidity, leading to a precise, long-lasting finish. A more tense, higher-acid version than 2015, it has more in common with the personality of the 2013 vintage.”
96 points, Kristaps Karklins, The Wine Advocate
“The 2016 Extra Brut Les Chemins d'Avize Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru is a very pretty, exotic Champagne. White flowers, mint, chalk, white pepper and crushed rocks are finely sculpted. Low dosage of 2 grams per liter adds notable tension and verve throughout This savory, super-excessive Champagne will be a fine companion at the dinner table.”
94 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Grand Cru Les Chemins d'Avize 2016 (Disg. Apr 2024)
$474.00
Added
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Rosé de Saignée NV (Base 20. Disg. Feb 23)
$256.00
Added

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Rosé de Saignée NV (Base 20. Disg. Feb 23)

The Rosé de Saignée is drawn mostly from what are thought to be the oldest Pinot Noir vines in Vertus (45 years old), and one of this village’s very last 100% Pinot vineyards. In fact, the vineyard is a co-planted blend of 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Pinot Gris, with both varieties contributing to this wine. The grapes are allowed to macerate for a period of two to three days before the juice is drawn off, providing the wine’s colour and much of its body and flavour. This saignée technique is now rare in Champagne, primarily as it is a demanding method of vinification and requires grapes with an excellent degree of maturity. Most rosé in Champagne is made with the addition of a little red wine. Vive la différence! As with all Larmandier’s wines, it fermented naturally. Part of this cuvée was raised in a Nomblot concrete egg and part in stainless steel. More recently, Larmandier has also been trialling amphorae designed by Mizel Riouspeyrous from Domaine Arretxea.It’s one of Champagne’s wow wines, repeatedly compared to a Chambolle-Musigny. In short, it’s a Champagne that can stop drinkers in their tracks. The 2020 is an exceptional release built on energy and crystalline tension. Although it drinks beautifully on its own, it has the depth to go with smoked or grilled salmon. Yes, do that—you won’t regret it! This bottling was disgorged with a discreet dosage of 2 g/L. It is a superb release that will be even better with a year or two in the cellar.

“The NV (2020) Extra Brut Rosé de Saignée is a pretty wine. Cinnamon, spice, crushed rose petals and dried herbs all grace this nuanced, understated Champagne. In this release, the Rosé is distinctly aromatic and savory (although it was done with fully destemmed fruit). The blend also incorporates 10% Pinot Gris and, of course, the hand of the current generation, brothers Arthur and Georges Larmandier. Dosage is 2 grams per liter.”
92 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Rosé de Saignée NV (Base 20. Disg. Feb 23)
$256.00
Added
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Terre de Vertus Blanc de Blancs 2015 (Disg. May 23) (1500ml)
$614.00
Added

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Terre de Vertus Blanc de Blancs 2015 (Disg. May 23) (1500ml)

Terre de Vertus is one of three single-terroir Blanc de Blancs produced at this estate and is certainly the most famous. It is from a parcel of vines on the chalky mid-slope of Vertus, traversing the 1er Cru lieux-dits of Les Barillers and Les Faucherets. These sites produce intensely mineral wines that recall the best of Le Mesnil (to the north) in their chalky raciness and drive.This fermented naturally, with roughly 60% fermented and aged in neutral barrique and the other 40% in large Stockinger casks. Malolactic conversion began spontaneously, and the wines were left on their lees for nearly a year. After the second fermentation, the wine aged in bottle for another six years before being disgorged. There is no dosage in order to respect the purity of the terroir. The result is one of the most distinctive and mineral wines of the entire Champagne region—and one of the benchmark wines of the great grower movement. Since the mid-‘90s, this wine has always been non-dosé—long before it was fashionable. The Larmandiers made the decision because this particular terroir (when farmed in their way: old vines, biodynamics, low yields, etc.) works best without any additions. Still very young and brimming with textural richness and energy, the new release shows a little more flex than the previous vintage. Courtesy of an especially low-yielding year high in dry extract, the palate is buoyed with freshness and the chalky finish is incredibly long and scintillating. Try it with oysters, terrine, hard cheeses, roast chicken or grilled white fish. 

“The 2015 Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Terre de Vertus continues to show well, offering up generous aromas of peach, orange oil, ripe melon, white cherries, buttery pastry, orange oil and dried white flowers. Full-bodied, layered and fleshy, with a vinous, muscular profile and a long, gently mordant finish, it's one of the more powerful wines in the range.”
93 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Terre de Vertus Blanc de Blancs 2015 (Disg. May 23) (1500ml)
$614.00
Added
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Longitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 20 Disg. Feb 24)
$194.00
Added

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Longitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 20 Disg. Feb 24)

Like this grower’s Latitude, this is 100% Côte des Blancs Chardonnay (the vineyards are in Cramant, Avize, Oger and Vertus), yet the vineyards have thinner topsoils so the vine roots plunge straight into the chalky bedrock. The name refers to the vertical nature of the geographic locations of the vineyards as well as the style of wine resulting from the chalky soils of these sites. While Larmandier’s Latitude is expansive across the palate, the Longitude is all about minerality, line and raciness. William Kelley has called this wine “one of the finest non-vintage bottlings to be found in Champagne”, and the high ratio of reserve wines should leave you with little doubt as to the quality on offer. This bottling is based on the 2020 vintage, with 40% reserve wine drawn from a ‘perpetual’ reserve started in 2004. 

“Based on the 2020 vintage and disgorged in November 2022, the new release of Larmandier's NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Longitude wafts from the glass with aromas of sweet citrus fruit, fresh pastry, green apple and flowers. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, its satiny attack segues into a racy, broad-shouldered mid-palate, concluding with a chalky finish.”
92 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
“The NV Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Longitude 1er Cru is a powerful, ample wine. The Longitude builds beautifully in the glass, creamy and textured, with tons of resonance. Pear, white pepper, dried flowers, mint and chalk are all delineated in a Champagne that blends power and tension. This is all class.”
94 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Longitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 20 Disg. Feb 24)
$194.00
Added
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AT-A-GLANCE

• This organic and biodynamic pioneer of the region is a formative figure in Champagne’s grower revolution.

• The family traces its viticultural roots back centuries. Pierre Larmandier and his wife Sophie have run the domaine since the late ’80s, and the family line continues with sons Arthur and Georges in the business.

• The domaine is in the Côte des Blancs, where the family farms 18 hectares, predominantly in Vertus.

• The philosophy is simple: wild yeasts, slow ferments and long maturations in various vessels (including amphora and wood) and negligible to no dosage.

• The wines put commune/site at centre stage and are prized for their focus, complexity and intense mineral drive.

• The range centres on Côte des Blancs Chardonnay Blanc de Blancs but includes a Blanc de Noirs Pinot Noir and saignée rosé, both from Vertus.



IN THE PRESS

“The Larmandier-Bernier Champagnes are some of the purest and most utterly engaging wines being made in the region today. I can’t recommend them highly enough.” Antonio Galloni, The Wine Advocate

“Few growers’ ranges in Champagne are as consistently outstanding as that of Larmandier-Bernier” Andrew Jefford, The New France

“In a region where vineyard work is not always given the priority it deserves, Larmandier-Bernier is a model of what can be achieved through conscientious and diligent care in the vines.” Peter Liem

“Pierre and Sophie Larmandier craft dramatic, vinous wines of real personality and class. Sustainable farming practices, indigenous fermentations and aging in cask are some of the cornerstones of an approach that yields distinctly potent, textured wines full of character.” Antonio Galloni, Vinous

Country

France

Primary Region

Champagne

People

Winemaker: Pierre Larmandier

Availability

National

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