International Fine Wines
International Fine Wines
International Fine Wines
International Fine Wines

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier

Outstanding Earth-to-Glass Grower Champagne from a Biodynamic Tour de Force

Pierre Larmandier told us a funny story. He had received a call from the owner of a one-star restaurant in Epernay with a request to pour Larmandier-Bernier by the glass. Pierre was curious—this restaurant had hardly been an ambassador for the wines of the best growers. Why the sudden call? “Well,” the owner explained, “I have a young sommelier who has just returned from Australia, and now he insists that we pour Larmandier-Bernier!” Who would have thought that the Australian wine scene would one day awaken the restaurants of Champagne to the glories of great grower wines? But there you go.

Larmandier-Bernier is a foundational grower on several levels. Of course, Larmandier-Bernier was one of the pioneers in organics/biodynamics and of what many today call the grower revolution in Champagne. Yet, it has also been a foundational estate in the Australian trade—it was likely the first great grower producer many of us tasted back in the day. Larmandier-Bernier, along with Egly-Ouriet, helped shape the Champagne market we now enjoy by winning listings and pours at many benchmark restaurants. All this at a time (almost 15 years ago now) when pouring Champagne without a famous brand name was simply not done. Larmandier-Bernier helped change all that. And they continue to help shape the market today—even in Épernay.
Such purity and minerality could only come from the impeccably tended vineyards of a man Laurent d'Harcourt, MD of Pol Roger, dubbed “The Ayatollah of quality” (he clearly knows the man well).

This estate is meticulously run by Pierre Larmandier and his wife, Sophie. Pierre’s family has owned vineyards in the Côte des Blancs since the Revolution, and Pierre took over the vines from his mother in 1988. He stopped using herbicide in 1992, then went organic, and today, the estate is also farmed biodynamically—extremely rare in Champagne, where only 2% of the vineyard surface is certified organic. The estate is now 18 hectares, predominantly in Vertus, at the southern tip of the Côte des Blancs, yet there are also holdings in Cramant, Chouilly, Oger and Avize. There is a predominance of old vine parcels—50, 60, and even 70 years old—again, something that is very rare in Champagne. This naturally keeps the yields low by Champagne standards, at 50 hl/ha on average.

In the winery, the approach is classically “minimalist” with indigenous yeasts, long, slow ferments of up to two months and very little sulphur. Various fermenting and aging vessels are used, including large oak vats and, more recently, some amphorae. Very low dosage levels are designed to be as neutral as possible. Sometimes, as is the case in the Terre de Vertus, there is no dosage at all. In other words, everything is designed to maximise the expression of the vineyard, commune and vintage. The resulting wines are wonderful expressions of their origins: fine and vinous, yet with a mineral intensity that keeps you coming back to the glass, sip after sip. In his book Champagne [Ten Speed Press], Peter Liem wrote: “Larmandier-Bernier is one of the finest estates in the Côte des Blancs, producing wines of unusual detail and clarity of expression. The style is for champagnes that are dry, minerally and terroir-driven, emphasizing purity and finesse over richness or sheer power.”

Like other benchmark growers, this producer keeps evolving and reaching greater heights. The wines still have the energy and intense minerality they have always offered, and now there is even more depth, detail and complexity. In part, this is due to an increase in the lees aging cycle, which the Larmandiers deem essential to the expression of their wines. For some time, Pierre and Sophie Larmandier have also indicated their wish to age their Champagnes for even longer before release, and the new underground maturation cellar grants them this opportunity.

The Range

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Longitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 20 Disg. Feb 24)
$194.00
Added

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Longitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 20 Disg. Feb 24)

Like this grower’s Latitude, this is 100% Côte des Blancs Chardonnay (the vineyards are in Cramant, Avize, Oger and Vertus), yet the vineyards have thinner topsoils so the vine roots plunge straight into the chalky bedrock. The name refers to the vertical nature of the geographic locations of the vineyards as well as the style of wine resulting from the chalky soils of these sites. While Larmandier’s Latitude is expansive across the palate, the Longitude is all about minerality, line and raciness. William Kelley has called this wine “one of the finest non-vintage bottlings to be found in Champagne”, and the high ratio of reserve wines should leave you with little doubt as to the quality on offer. This bottling is based on the 2020 vintage, with 40% reserve wine drawn from a ‘perpetual’ reserve started in 2004. 

“Based on the 2020 vintage and disgorged in November 2022, the new release of Larmandier's NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Longitude wafts from the glass with aromas of sweet citrus fruit, fresh pastry, green apple and flowers. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, its satiny attack segues into a racy, broad-shouldered mid-palate, concluding with a chalky finish.”
92 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
“The NV Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Longitude 1er Cru is a powerful, ample wine. The Longitude builds beautifully in the glass, creamy and textured, with tons of resonance. Pear, white pepper, dried flowers, mint and chalk are all delineated in a Champagne that blends power and tension. This is all class.”
94 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Longitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 20 Disg. Feb 24)
$194.00
Added
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Grand Cru Vieille Vigne du Levant 2013 (Disg. May 22) (1500ml)
$948.00
Added

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Grand Cru Vieille Vigne du Levant 2013 (Disg. May 22) (1500ml)

This Blanc de Blancs was historically labelled Vieille Vigne de Cramant. Nothing has changed save for the name, which is now inspired by the vineyard where most of the grapes come from, Bourron du Levant (planted in 1960). The balance comes from a 0.5-hectare holding in the neighbouring terroir of Le Fond du Bâteau (with 75-year-old vines). Both plots are at the heart of Cramant’s southeast-facing slopes on the flanks of the Butte de Saran. Basking in the first rays of the morning sun, these vineyards give wonderfully ripe, layered wines. The old vines’ deep root system combines with the terroir to bring a wine of glowing density and opulence. It offers a fascinating, concentrated and stone-fruited contrast to the other Larmandier cuvées (not to mention other producers’ Cramant wines). It remains a super-mineral wine, but here you have more flesh, weight and body. The winemaking across each of Larmandier’s single-terroir wines is similar. Here, it is spontaneous fermentation and malolactic conversion, 12 months in large Stockinger barrels and no filtration. This cuvée, however, spends at least eight years in bottle on lees. This release was disgorged with 2 g/L dosage.

“The 2013 Extra Brut Vieille Vigne de Levant Grand Cru is a Champagne of real breadth and substance that captures the essence of these 50-70-year-old vines. Apricot, chamomile, dried flowers and a kiss of oak are all amplified. Vinous and creamy, the 2013 builds beautifully with time in the glass, showing tremendous character and pedigree. The 2013 was fermented and aged in a combination of neutral barrique and foudre. Its a super-classic Larmandier-Bernier Champagne. Dosage is 2 grams per liter.”
95 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
“The Larmandier family excelled in this cooler vintage, so it's unsurprising that the 2013 Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Vieille Vigne du Levant has turned out beautifully. Wafting from the glass with notes of crisp yellow orchard fruit, brioche, white flowers, oyster shell and honeycomb, it's medium to full-bodied, deep, layered and incisive, with a tangy spine of acidity, terrific tension and a long, racy finish.”
96+ points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Grand Cru Vieille Vigne du Levant 2013 (Disg. May 22) (1500ml)
$948.00
Added
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Longitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 20 Disg. Feb 2023)
$194.00
Added

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Longitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 20 Disg. Feb 2023)

Disgorged February 2023. 2020 base vintage with 40% reserve wine from a perpetual reserve started in 2004. Like this grower’s Latitude, this is 100% Côte des Blancs Chardonnay (the vineyards are in Cramant, Avize, Oger and Vertus), yet the vineyards have thinner topsoils, and so the vine roots plunge straight into the chalky bedrock. The name here refers to the vertical nature of the geographic locations of the vineyards as well as the style of wine resulting from the chalky soils of these sites, i.e. a more linear, mineral wine. While Larmandier’s Latitude is expansive across the palate, the Longitude is all about minerality, line and raciness. William Kelley has called this wine “one of the finest non-vintage bottlings to be found in Champagne”, and the high ratio of reserve wines should leave you with little doubt as to the quality on offer. This bottling is based on the 2020 vintage, with 40% reserve wine drawn from a ‘perpetual’ reserve started in 2004.

“The NV Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Longitude 1er Cru is a blend taken from parcels in Vertus, Avize, Cramant and Oger that lie on the same longitudinal axis. Crushed rocks, jasmine, mint, white pepper and lemon peel race out of the glass. This taut, beautifully sculpted yet airy Champagne from Larmandier-Bernier is a winner.”
94 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Longitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 20 Disg. Feb 2023)
$194.00
Added
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Latitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 18 Disg. Sep 23) (1500ml)
$419.00
Added

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Latitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 18 Disg. Sep 23) (1500ml)

Latitude is 100% Côte des Blancs Chardonnay from vineyards on the southern side of Vertus. These vineyards are on roughly the same latitude, hence the name, which also hints at the breadth of texture that wines from these sites (having more clay in the soil) tend to offer. In the cellar, Larmandier uses mostly large-format casks (almost all the wood now comes from Stockinger in Austria). Fermentation and malolactic conversion take place naturally, and there is no filtration. Bottle mature for more than two years before disgorgement and dosage at low, extra-brut levels (in this case, 3 g/L) at least six months before release.Despite its obvious crystalline and salty backdrop, in contrast to the Longitude cuvée, Latitude is a Champagne built on textural breadth and volume. Pure and mineral, this offers texture and stone-fruited depth without sacrificing the cut-diamond precision and citrusy, chalky energy that is a given at this address. Extremely versatile at the table, both entry cuvées work with a wide range of dishes, including fish, terrines, any chicken dish (particularly lemon chicken) and most cheeses (except blue or strong washed-rind). This bottling is based on the 2018 vintage, with the reserve wine drawn from a ‘perpetual’ reserve started in 2004.

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Latitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 18 Disg. Sep 23) (1500ml)
$419.00
Added
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Latitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 21 Disg. Apr 24)
$165.00
Added

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Latitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 21 Disg. Apr 24)

Latitude is 100% Côte des Blancs Chardonnay from vineyards on the southern side of Vertus. These vineyards are on roughly the same latitude, hence the name, which also hints at the breadth of texture that wines from these sites (having more clay in the soil) tend to offer. In the cellar, Larmandier uses mostly large-format casks (almost all the wood now comes from Stockinger in Austria). Fermentation and malolactic conversion take place naturally, and there is no filtration. Bottle mature for more than two years before disgorgement and dosage at low, extra-brut levels (in this case, 3 g/L) at least six months before release.Despite its obvious crystalline and salty backdrop, in contrast to the Longitude cuvée, Latitude is a Champagne built on textural breadth and volume. Pure and mineral, this offers texture and stone-fruited depth without sacrificing the cut-diamond precision and citrusy, chalky energy that is a given at this address. Extremely versatile at the table, both entry cuvées work with a wide range of dishes, including fish, terrines, any chicken dish (particularly lemon chicken) and most cheeses (except blue or strong washed-rind). This bottling is based on the 2021 vintage, with 40% reserve wine drawn from a ‘perpetual’ reserve started in 2004.

“The NV Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Latitude 1er Cru is bright and beautifully focused. The Latitude contains 40% perpetual reserve wine dating back to 2004. It is usually a bit more approachable on release, but this year's version clearly needs time to soften. Today, citrus, floral and mineral notes abound on the steely finish.”
92 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Latitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 21 Disg. Apr 24)
$165.00
Added
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Latitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 20 Disg. Oct 2022) (6000ml)
$2,283.00
Added

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Latitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 20 Disg. Oct 2022) (6000ml)

Disgorged October 2022. Latitude is 100% Côte des Blancs Chardonnay from vineyards on the southern side of Vertus. These vineyards are on roughly the same latitude, hence the name, which also hints at the breadth of texture that the wines from these sites (having more clay in the soil) tend to offer.In the cellar, Larmandier uses mostly large-format casks (almost all the wood now comes from Stockinger in Austria). Fermentation and malolactic conversion take place naturally, and there is no filtration. Bottles are matured for more than two years, manually disgorged and dosed at low, extra-brut levels (in this case, four grams per litre) at least six months before release.Pure and mineral, this offers texture and stone-fruited depth without sacrificing the cut-diamond precision and citrusy, chalky energy that is a given at this address. Extremely versatile at the table, both entry cuvées can work with a wide range of dishes from fish, terrines, any chicken dish (particularly lemon chicken) and most cheeses (except blue or strong washed-rind). This bottling is based on the 2020 vintage, with 40% reserve wine drawn from a ‘perpetual’ reserve started in 2004.

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Latitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 20 Disg. Oct 2022) (6000ml)
$2,283.00
Added
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AT-A-GLANCE

• This organic and biodynamic pioneer of the region is a formative figure in Champagne’s grower revolution.

• The family traces its viticultural roots back centuries. Pierre Larmandier and his wife Sophie have run the domaine since the late ’80s, and the family line continues with sons Arthur and Georges in the business.

• The domaine is in the Côte des Blancs, where the family farms 18 hectares, predominantly in Vertus.

• The philosophy is simple: wild yeasts, slow ferments and long maturations in various vessels (including amphora and wood) and negligible to no dosage.

• The wines put commune/site at centre stage and are prized for their focus, complexity and intense mineral drive.

• The range centres on Côte des Blancs Chardonnay Blanc de Blancs but includes a Blanc de Noirs Pinot Noir and saignée rosé, both from Vertus.



IN THE PRESS

“The Larmandier-Bernier Champagnes are some of the purest and most utterly engaging wines being made in the region today. I can’t recommend them highly enough.” Antonio Galloni, The Wine Advocate

“Few growers’ ranges in Champagne are as consistently outstanding as that of Larmandier-Bernier” Andrew Jefford, The New France

“In a region where vineyard work is not always given the priority it deserves, Larmandier-Bernier is a model of what can be achieved through conscientious and diligent care in the vines.” Peter Liem

“Pierre and Sophie Larmandier craft dramatic, vinous wines of real personality and class. Sustainable farming practices, indigenous fermentations and aging in cask are some of the cornerstones of an approach that yields distinctly potent, textured wines full of character.” Antonio Galloni, Vinous

Country

France

Primary Region

Champagne

People

Winemaker: Pierre Larmandier

Availability

National

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