The chance to begin working with a historic Burgundy domaine operating at this level rarely comes around these days. This was the estate (artist?) formerly known as François Jobard, which then changed its name to François & Antoine Jobard and is now simply Antoine Jobard. This reflects the growing importance of the role played by François Jobard’s son, Antoine, who is now fully in control. Antoine has clearly inherited his father’s knack for crafting immaculate, tightly wound white Burgundies from the family’s superb Meursault holdings. And the reds are on the rise, in more ways than one.

The Jobard family draws on an enviable roll call of terroirs—they are arguably the benchmark producer of Genevrières, and this vineyard, along with Poruzots and Charmes, are the marquee holdings. There are also four parcels of Bourgogne and several well-sited village parcels (including the renowned En la Barre and Les Tillets). There is also some Blagny 1er Cru Blanc and some other tiny releases.

Add to this the new Pinot vineyards Antoine took over in July 2019, and the proposition becomes even more mouthwatering. Almost six hectares of vines, including some outstanding red terroirs, entered the fold from the old Pommard-based domaine, André Mussy. Among these are Pommard Epenots, Pézerolles and Les Saussilles, some Volnay villages and three Beaune Premiers Crus. It also opened the door to Bourgogne Rouge and village wines from Volnay and Pommard.

Many cognoscenti are now arguing that the son has already reached greater heights than his father—knowing both of them (and loving both their wines), we try to avoid entering that debate.

François Jobard, who ‘retired’ in 2007 (retired in Burgundy doesn’t necessarily mean ceased to work!), was justly respected for his work in the vines and the profound depth and structure of his wines. Kermit Lynch, Jobard’s US importer, notes that the likes of Coche and Raveneau held François’ wines in “the highest esteem”. He despised systemic treatments and cultivation, zero herbicides or pesticides, short pruning and shoot thinning have been the norm for decades. Antoine Jobard follows his father’s growing practices, and the winemaking is also very close, with no yeast additions, very little new wood and no filtration.

Be that as it may, while his father’s wines were known for their almost formidable youthful austerity, they have since taken on what Lynch calls a “sensuous approachability”. We agree; without losing any of their taut, chiselled personalities, Antoine’s wines are more open than his fathers when young, and there’s also an added precision, more transparency and perhaps less reduction. The aging is also sometimes a little shorter. Jobard is humble and refuses to take any credit for the plaudits of this ‘new style’, instead putting down any perceived changes to the climate. He also uses less new oak than his father (only 15%), mainly supplied by Meursault’s Damy cooperage. Otherwise, there is no bâtonnage, and Jobard traditionally ferments with a high level of solids, a key to the powerful and ageworthy style. One tradition that irrefutably hasn’t changed here is the ritual of late bottling. Even considering that Antoine bottles a little earlier than his father, this is still one of the last Burgundy domaines to release their wines. The ferments are notoriously slow, and the wines may rest in barrel for 20 months before bottling.

Domaine Antoine Jobard has been organic for 13 years and is now certified. These are striking Meursault wines from one of the village’s reluctant superstars. Being a Meursault estate, there’s no Grand Cru, but the wines are certainly of Grand Cru standard.