Domaine Camille Thiriet

A New Burgundy Star – from a Surprising Location!

It’s tough starting any venture from scratch, let alone a Burgundy domaine. But this is precisely what Camille Thiriet has done, starting as a négociant and building a domaine of six hectares in just six vintages (Thiriet’s first vintage was in 2016). But that’s not all this young grower has achieved. With her partner, Canadian-born winemaker Matt Chittick, Thiriet is now putting the terroirs of the two most southerly villages of the Côte de Nuits back on the fine wine map. These are two of Burgundy’s least-known villages: Corgoloin (estate) and Comblanchien (négociant), the first you drive past as you head north from the hill of Corton.

Matt and Camille’s passion is immediately obvious, and it has attracted support from locals like Jeremy Seysses of Domaine Dujac, Nicolas Potel and, even more amazingly, Bernard Noblet, retired Cellar Master of Domaine de la Romanée Conti. All have helped mentor this new estate. Matt and Camille are also close with the (soon-to-be retired) Didier Fornerol, arguably the finest estate of the Côte de Nuits-Villages.

The estate vines are all in Corgoloin, on the east and southeast-facing slopes and the same rocky, limestone and clay soils of the more famous villages to the north. Little wonder then that Camille Thiriet describes this village as “...amazing, underrated and unknown”.

Camille and Matt’s work in the vines reflects the blueprint of Burgundy’s current ‘Golden Generation’—the farming follows organic principles, and there are two horses (Obelix and Véga) used for some of the cultivation work. In their cellar, one in Comblanchien and now a second in Corgoloin, you will taste wines of great purity and freshness; the whites crunchy and saline and the reds loaded with candied red fruits, nettle and spice. Delicacy is the goal here; every fermenter is gently foot trodden with the aim being to infuse, rather than to extract. The use of new oak is capped at around 20% and the wines are bottled unfiltered with just a touch of sulphur dioxide.

The wines labelled as "Maison C. Thiriet" are négociant wines, mostly from Comblanchien, while those that are labelled "Domaine Camille Thiriet" are from estate vines in Corgoloin. A young producer striving for the highest quality, seeking to produce pure, perfumed, digestible wines and hoping to help reveal unknown terroirs to the world of Burgundy; it’s little wonder that we worked so hard to get an allocation from Domaine Camille Thiriet. They may not be that well known (yet), but just like those other pioneers we have mentioned above, fame is not far away.

The Range

Maison C. Thiriet Bourgogne Blanc Cuvée Confidentielle 2022
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Maison C. Thiriet Bourgogne Blanc Cuvée Confidentielle 2022

Camille’s négoce Bourgogne Blanc has been in the portfolio since her first vintage in 2016. The source can vary. Where 2021 was drawn from a plot of old-vine Chardonnay next to Comblanchien, this year’s release comes from two historic contacts in Puligny-Montrachet and Mâcon-Villages. Both vineyards are farmed organically, and Camille explains that the Mâcon fruit brings generosity while the Puligny side brings salinity and citrusy brightness. This is simply terrific Bourgogne with loads of character, good texture and a vibrant finish. Raised in 20% new oak, the two parcels were vinified separately before being married in tank for six months,

“Broader, some impression of a granular texture here. More impact, a suggestion of oak, nicely structured and framed with a faint chalky tannin – a beauty!”
Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report
“The 2022 Bourgogne Chardonnay Cuvée Confidentielle bursts with aromas of pear, toasted nuts and white flowers, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and fleshy palate that's rich but bright, concluding with a saline finish.”
89 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
Maison C. Thiriet Bourgogne Blanc Cuvée Confidentielle 2022
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Domaine Camille Thiriet Côte de Nuits-Villages Rouge La Robignotte 2022
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Domaine Camille Thiriet Côte de Nuits-Villages Rouge La Robignotte 2022

This tiny 0.6-hectare monopole above the Corgoloin cemetery was the jewel in Gilles Jourdan’s portfolio. Now, Camille Thiriet wears the crown. The vineyard takes its name from the owner in Napoleonic times, and part of the site’s claim to fame is the rare outcropping of blue marl that imbues its wines with expectational longevity. It’s the only vineyard in the area with these rare soils. Camille told us she has tasted wines from 1957 and 1979 with the previous owner and was blown away by the quality. The vines in Thiriet’s plot average 60 years old, and Camille’s inaugural vintage fermented with 40% bunches. This is Thiriet’s most serious and complex wine: compact with deep, dark cherry fruit, roasted brown spice notes and fine, powdery tannins. Give it a few years and wait for the fireworks. In terms of the reviews below, remember that a 93 from Jasper Morris for a “village-level” wine is extraordinary and well-deserved. 

“Five Star Wine. Mid crimson ruby in colour, la Robignotte is classically perfumed, all in cherries, delivering a gorgeous intensity right from the start, just a little white pepper behind, then comes another wave of the cherry fruit. 40% whole bunches, as this is the first year. Effortless, harmonious and digeste, as the French describe things – digestible in English doesn’t do the wine justice.”
93 points, Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
“From a small monopole in Corgoloin named in honor of one of Napoleon’s veterans, the 2022 Côte de Nuits-Villages La Robignotte Monopole unwinds in the glass with aromas of sweet cherries, red berries and peonies, followed by a medium to full-bodied, lively and perfumed palate that’s suave, seamless and complete. This is clearly set to be a highlight of Thiriet’s portfolio in the years to come.”
92+ points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
Domaine Camille Thiriet Côte de Nuits-Villages Rouge La Robignotte 2022
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Domaine Camille Thiriet Bourgogne Rouge Les Chagniots 2022
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Domaine Camille Thiriet Bourgogne Rouge Les Chagniots 2022

This comes from a small parcel of 60-year-old vines under the Domaine d’Ardhuy’s Clos des Langres in Corgoloin. The name Chagniots is often cited as a reference to small oak trees, though Chaignots denotes iron-rich minerals in the local patois, so here it could refer to the reddish soils high in iron oxide. This first release fermented with 40% bunches, and it’s delicious, sweet-fruited and seductive, yet with great class. It’s an expressive, character-filled red Burgundy for a great price.

“From a parcel located below the Domaine d’Ardhuy in Corgoloin, the 2022 Bourgogne Rouge Les Chaignots offers up aromas of sweet cherries, berries and red fruit compote, followed by a medium-bodied, supple and easy palate that’s pure, lively and charmingly demonstrative.”
90 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
Domaine Camille Thiriet Bourgogne Rouge Les Chagniots 2022
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Domaine Camille Thiriet Bourgogne Rouge En La Place 2022
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Domaine Camille Thiriet Bourgogne Rouge En La Place 2022

The first vintage of the Domaine Bourgogne Rouge stems from the same vineyard as the white wine—and the vines are even older. The vineyard’s name, La Sablière, refers to the sandy clay soils, partly explaining this wine’s beautiful, lifted perfume of summer fruits and red flowers. The vines are 90 years old, some even older, and Camille ferments this wine in concrete with 40% whole bunches layered at the bottom of the tank (so that any punchdowns and pumpovers won’t break the whole berries). Simply a stellar wine for this level: elegant, pure-fruited and vivid with a pretty, lacy structure and crunchy finish.

“Hmm, the wine is cold but its aroma is growing in the glass – direct, fragrant – floral – it’s gorgeous. There’s a hint of tannin framing the structure and flavour – but what an open, fluid, clean wine of delicious flavour – and not a bit simple. I’d be keeping this a year or two – finishing with a fine juicy and vibrant perfumed red fruit… Beautiful Bourgogne!”
Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report
“The 2022 Bourgogne Rouge En la Place is bright and vibrant, revealing attractive aromas of sweet red berries and licorice, followed by a medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy palate. This is another welcome addition to the range.”
90 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
Domaine Camille Thiriet Bourgogne Rouge En La Place 2022
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Domaine Camille Thiriet Côte de Nuits-Villages Rouge Cuvée Deslandes 2022
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Domaine Camille Thiriet Côte de Nuits-Villages Rouge Cuvée Deslandes 2022

This super impressive red comes from 90-year-old Pinot vines (!) high on the slope of Comblanchien, not far from the Château de Comblanchien. Although drawn from a terroir called Le Creux de Sabon, Camille prefers to call this bottling Cuvée Deslandes in honour of an early benefactor—and, well, it’s easier to pronounce! The wine was vinified with 100% bunches and a portion matured in stainless steel to capture as much of the vineyard’s delicate, floral aromatics as possible. There are echoes of old-school Dujac here, with the gorgeous red and blue fruit notes interwoven with lots of spice from the stems. Really impressive length, too. We’re not sure why there are no reviews, but this is clearly 1er Cru in all but name. Really, really delicious, classy wine.

Domaine Camille Thiriet Côte de Nuits-Villages Rouge Cuvée Deslandes 2022
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Maison C. Thiriet Côte de Nuits-Villages Rouge Aux Montagnes 2022
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Maison C. Thiriet Côte de Nuits-Villages Rouge Aux Montagnes 2022

This was the cuvée that started it all—the first wine that Thiriet released. Aux Montagnes is a four-hectare parcel directly below the Comblanchien château and quarry. Sited on the belly of the slope at 260 metres—where the Côte de Nuits 1er Crus normally sit (just saying)—there is only 25cm of clay-limestone before the vines tap directly into the bedrock. The clay here is quite red, with a high iron content. Thiriet works with a parcel of vines from Nicolas Potel’s holdings planted in the 1970s. She uses fewer bunches for this vineyard as the stems add a lot of tannins here. The result is a more fleshy, hedonistic style of Burgundy (yet still fine-boned!) with excellent density and waves of sweet fruit.

“Camille has made this cuvée since her first year. Just 10-15% whole bunch vinification on a deep clay and limestone soil. A lively ruby crimson. An explosion of gorgeous fresh raspberry fruit, such elegance, a little white pepper behind, and a long supple fine finish. Still building at the back!”
91 points, Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
“One of the highlights of the range is the 2022 Côte de Nuits-Villages Aux Montagnes from this higher-altitude site, characterized by dense clay rich in limestone fragments, overlooking the village of Comblanchien. Offering up aromas of red berries, rose petals, warm spices and licorice, it’s medium to full-bodied, fine-boned and precise, with a bright spine of acidity and a mouthwateringly mineral finish.”
92 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
Maison C. Thiriet Côte de Nuits-Villages Rouge Aux Montagnes 2022
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“An engaging person with more than engaging wines – there is very high quality here – simply delicious wine. I’m struck by the seriousness of Camille’s approach and the quality of the wines that she’s been making. All the wines here show high-class textures, mouth-watering flavours and clarity of flavour. Great stuff – all of it!” Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report

“Originally, Camille was planning to train as a ‘nose’ in the perfume industry. This may explain the exceptional precision and class of her wines.” Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy

“[The wines] certainly over-deliver for their modest appellation.” Jancisrobinson.com

Country

France

Primary Region

Côte de Nuits

People

Winemakers: Camille Thiriet & Matt Chittick

Availability

National

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