Bertrand Gautherot is unquestionably one of the most iconic growers in Champagne. Parting ways with his local co-op due to his decision to embrace organics in 1993 (certified biodynamic since 1998), Gautherot’s approach has always been at the cutting edge for his region.

Located in the hamlet of Buxières-sur-Arce in the Aube’s Côte des Bar, Gautherot’s estate is named after two of his key lieux-dits: Vouette and Sorbée. The vineyards lie closer to Chablis than to Épernay, both in distance and geology, with soils dominated by the same Kimmeridgian limestone for which Chablis is famed.

All his wines come from a single harvest (noted by the ‘R’ and number on the back label) except the Fidèle cuvée, which sees a small addition of between five and 10% reserve wine from a réserve perpétuelle started in 2001. Even this wine would be eligible to be called a vintage wine in any other region. These are all complex, textural, incredibly mineral wines made with low (or no) sulphur and without a drop of dosage. They are wines from low-yielding limestone-rich hillsides that give intense, ripe fruit to a farmer whose heart lies in his vineyards.

A visit here is always a lot of fun and yet so thought-provoking. It’s a domaine that is constantly experimenting and pushing boundaries, and Bertrand has a seemingly insatiable level of passion, single-mindedness and determination.

Despite several years with terribly low yields (the 2021 harvest was down 80%, mainly due to frost), Bertrand is full of energy and enthusiasm about what the future holds. Importantly, alongside the likes of Agrapart, Egly-Ouriet, Larmandier-Bernier and Selosse, this is another great grower where the next generation has returned. Bertrand now has his daughter Héloïse working with him, bringing fresh energy and new ideas. There is so much innovation here (even some that we cannot speak about!) that it’s hard to keep up.

A visit to Buxières-sur-Arce is always a lot of fun and so thought-provoking. The domaine is always experimenting and pushing boundaries, and Bertrand has a seemingly insatiable level of passion, single-mindedness and determination.

Aside from developments in the vineyard and cellar and the quality of the wine, this is also a must-visit address for anyone wishing to think more deeply about biodynamics. In fact, there’s now a beautiful documentary on Vouette et Sorbée and biodynamics by Élie Séonnet called Le Champagne a rendez-vous avec la Lune. It is available to rent on Vimeo On Demand for those who would like greater insight into this producer—all the better if you have a glass of Vouette et Sorbée at hand.

Gautherot abhors any kind of manipulation in the cellar. He uses the traditional Coquard press, and the juice is transferred into oak or amphora via gravity rather than pumping. Primary fermentations are always carried out with natural yeasts. Riddling and disgorgement are all done entirely by hand. The wines are bottled without fining, filtration or dosage The results are some of Champagne’s most original and complex wines—wines of distinctive personality, energy and a sense of place.