Les Trois Roches is named for the three rocky parcels of vines from which it derives—Rochegrès, Roche Noire and Rochelle. The average age of the vines on these sites is now more than 40 years. Pierre-Marie points out that La Rochelle (which overlooks the famous windmill) brings structure, whereas the east-facing Rochegrès contributes finesse and supple tannins, and the Roche Noire grapes bring liveliness and juicy fruit. One of the common features of these sites is the concentration of manganese in the soils, which delivers an unmistakable mineral thread that runs through the wine. Unlike Chermette’s other Crus, the Moulin-à-Vent undergoes a portion of barrique aging (20%), which gives you some idea of the intense personality of this Cru.
It's a wonderfully vivacious and aromatic release with a structured, mineral and ferrous intensity that screams of its place. Expect layers of blue fruit and black cherry, a juicy, enveloping texture, delicately mouthcoating tannins and creamy old-vine/low-yield concentration, all underscored by that pungent seam of smoky mineral and long, succulent freshness of the vintage. This serious, grown-up Beaujolais warrants a few years in bottle before broaching, though it does have the balance to be enjoyed with gusto now!