Les Pargues is a Chablis lieu-dit situated on a ridge between the Montmains and Vosgros Premiers Crus. It has the same exposure as Vaillons and Montmains, so it’s a very handy site. The story goes that it was originally classified as a 1er Cru vineyard (pre-AOC), before being largely abandoned during the war, when there was a labour shortage. This meant that when the AOC was formed it missed out on the status it deserved. Regardless of the accuracy of this story, locals rightly speak very highly of this site: the position and thin, stony soils give a wine that’s intense and mineral.
Contributing to the quality of this wine is the vine age in Moreau’s tiny parcel (on average, 50-plus years old) and the extremely low yields they give (15-25 hl/ha is typical). Vinified with only 10% barrels, the 2020 is a dense and invigorating Pargues with a ripe, juicy texture and flavours of citrus, quince, chervil and wet rocks. As the wine opens, its mineral elements come to the fore in the form of oyster shell, brine and sappy spice. A wonderful wine.