François and Edouard Labet’s old-vine Bourgogne Blanc comes from small parcels of 50+-year-old vines in Beaune and Chorey-lès-Beaune. This is wonderfully vibrant, with citrus essential oil and grapefruit skin. Plenty of savoury character on the palate, with hints of candied orange and buttered toast. Refreshing yet rich, with plenty of texture for the year. Lots to like here. Only 10% of the oak is new.