Bill Nanson says this is the “standard-bearer of the iconoclasm of the domaine”, and he is right on the money. It’s a remarkable and ageworthy 1er Cru that is unique on several levels. Not only is it a monopole, but this was, for a long time, the only 1er Cru white in Morey-Saint-Denis (Dujac now also makes a white Monts Luisants, but not from the clos). It also remains the only 1er Cru in all of Burgundy that is 100% Aligoté (and ancient Aligoté at that). At different times in this vineyard’s history, there have been small quantities of Chardonnay and Pinot Gouges (a white mutation of Pinot Noir—a sort of Pinot Blanc, if you like) in the blend. But from 2004, it returned to its origins of 100% Aligoté, mainly from a selection of vines planted in 1911. Today, the wine commemorates these ancient plants with the Vieilles Vignes designation. Since 2015, a parcel of younger-vine fruit makes up 20% of the blend and has lowered the average age to around 90 years.The grapes are pressed in Ponsot’s pneumatic press, fermented in tank and barrel, and then aged in neutral oak (all barriques between 10 and 60 years old). The 2020 is a truly great vintage of this wine: textured, layered and yet with stunning mineral freshness and drive. Terrific saline length! Simply a great white Burgundy and great wine of place—we defy anyone to pick the variety blind.