Laughing Jack Jack's GSM 2021

A slice of great-value Barossa soul from the quiet achiever. The first thing to know about this winegrower is that he lives in the vineyard. Shawn Kalleske has completed his 25th vintage at the estate. His gnarled, crevassed hands tell the tale of each tour of duty, and his rare work ethic shows in the quality of his wines.

Laughing Jack’s GSM is drawn from the estate’s manicured Moppa Hill and Greenock vineyards. Planted in 1962, the Moppa Hill site has ancient, sandy soils with old vines deeply anchored in the reddish-orange clays far beneath. The Greenock property has deep red soils. Both sites are own-rooted, low-yielding and managed sustainably according to organic principles.

The 2021 blend chimes in at 62% Grenache, 22% Shiraz and 16% dry-grown Moppa Mourvèdre. All components are handpicked, destemmed and fermented separately as whole berries, while the free-run juice and the skins from the press age separately. The blending takes place after 16 months in seasoned French puncheons.

There’s a newfound purity to Kalleske’s wine these days, and the 2021 is vibrantly scented and full-throated yet balanced on the palate with a seductive texture and delicious spice-driven generosity. Kalleske should probably be asking a little more for this wine, but let’s keep that to ourselves for now. It will make many drinkers happy on many levels.