Lethbridge has been working with fruit from the Malakoff Vineyard in the Pyrenees near Landsborough for more than 10 years. This celebrated site—owned and operated by Cameron and Robert John—has long been the source of top-quality Shiraz from some of Victoria’s most celebrated producers. The moderately sloped site was first planted in 1997 and lies at 300 metres with a well-sheltered northeast aspect. The soils are rich in red ferrous clay with large amounts of ironstone and quartz littered throughout. The lion's share of the 23-hectare site is planted to three Shiraz clones (PT23, BVRC30 and Best’s Old Block), with the balance comprising Nebbiolo and a small portion of Viognier.
The farming doctrine at Malakoff mirrors that of Lethbridge, with sustainability and soil health as top priorities. Ray and Maree work closely with the Johns each year and are intimately involved in the decisions for their chosen blocks (they work with the same blocks and take 100% of the fruit) to ensure yields are kept low and the fruit is picked at optimal ripeness. Though each Syrah block displays its own character and clonal identity, Ray tells us that the site’s unique marker is a common inky/spicy note detected throughout.
The fruit was picked by hand, destemmed and fermented spontaneously in a 3000-litre cuve for 20 days before being pressed off and returned to the same vessel for 10 months’ maturation. Cool conditions prevailed in 2022, meaning ripening was slower, harvest later and the resulting fruit refined and delicate in nature. Nadeson maintains that this is the “yummiest” wine he makes, and the 2022 is as attractive and fragrant as we have seen. Fruit weight, a savoury/mineral core and lifted spice abound; this is cool-climate Syrah in fine form.