Nestled in an elevated valley behind Auxey-Duresses, Ponsot’s stony and rugged source vineyard is typical of Saint-Romain’s cool, limestone-rich terroir. And yet the wine offered here is far from typical, with a texture, complexity and seduction rarely seen from this appellation. A mésange is a small songbird, and this bird can sing. Now whole bunch-pressed and vinified with more solids, the wine is a vibrant but layered and generous white Burgundy. Like most Saint-Romain, it is delicious young and recommended to be drunk over the first five years of its life. As this has always come from a vineyard not owned by the domaine, the Ponsot family now labels it Maison.