The last few years have seen a serious uptick in the calibre of Murdoch Hill’s Syrah. This should come as no surprise; the quality of the raw material combined with the talent of vigneron Michael Downer is a proven combination. Murdoch Hill’s prowess with cool-climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay is written in stone; now Syrah joins the ranks of this estate’s classics.
“Among the vanguard of exceptional Australian shiraz,” Ned Goodwin MW wrote of the 2022 release. Campbell Mattinson showed equal admiration for the same wine, prefacing his effusive review with: “This isn't your average gear.” In the mould of the preceding two seasons, 2023 was long and cool, and the resulting fruit was exceptional: perfectly ripe with detailed, composed flavour and texture profiles.
Though not the most expensive bottling in the range, Landau is Downer’s signature wine in many ways. It comes from a single parcel at Murdoch Hill’s Landau block in Oakbank. It’s a predominately east-facing slope at 400 metres on shallow, red loam soils with varying levels of schist rock and a vein of ironstone. The vines were planted in 1998. Oakbank’s warmer, sunny days allow the Syrah to fully ripen while the afternoon breezes and cool nights promote natural acidity. The block is sustainably managed according to organic principles, with zero herbicides.
Downer’s style has always channelled the elegant, spicier side of Adelaide Hills Syrah. Cool-fruited freshness and lacy tannins form the foundation, while bunches, whole berries and restrained oak add the colour between the lines. The 2023 fermented with just 12% bunches―a decision dictated by the cool nature of the season―and matured in older oak puncheons (just 10% new) and demi-muids for 10 months.