The best release yet under this label, the ’23 is 100% Sauvignon sourced from two vineyards in North Canterbury: the BioGro-certified Good Family Vineyard planted on Glasnevin Gravels, and the Fraher Vineyard planted on Omihi clay soils. Fruit from both sites is pressed as bunches before the juice ferments in tulip-shaped concrete vats and a few old barrels. This year, 8% skin fermentation and malolactic conversion naturally balance the Sauvignon’s piercing acidity while supporting its innate vibrancy. It’s a cracking release with a pulpy, multi-layered palate enlivened by mouth-watering acidity and tension. In many ways, it is the antithesis of what you might expect from a New Zealand savvy. It’s a don’t-miss for this unique wine.