Théo Dancer’s Gamay is now sourced from an organic grower in Chiroubles, although the winemaking remains the same: the grapes are fully destemmed and matured in amphora and old cask. The resulting wine has a more Burgundian feel than last year’s wine (drawn from a friend’s vineyard in Lancié, near Fleurie). It’s a fine, energetic, powdery wine with silky, plummy fruit and a lick of cedary oak. Excellent depth on the palate and lingering freshness— Théo is onto a good thing here.