This year’s Grand Élevage is drawn mainly from the village of Péronne between Viré and Azé, with a complement from Mâcon-Pierreclos. This wine was vinified entirely in oak, with 15% new barrels. Raised for eight months on its lees, it’s a compelling Bourgogne for the price. Inviting and aromatic, it opens with juicy yellow orchard fruits lifted by notes of lemon, stone and white flowers. The palate is lithe and detailed with fleshy fruits, underscored by mouthwatering freshness and a nip of phenolics. Fine length, too. According to winemaker Julien Desplans, the 2022 “is certainly one of the best Bourgogne-level wines we have produced at Verget.” We’re not going to disagree.