Bannockburn: S.R.H and Serré 2023

S.R.H and Serré 2023 – “A rocket of a wine” (S.R.H), “I was hooked from the first sip” (Serré)
Bannockburn: S.R.H and Serré 2023

It’s no longer news that Bannockburn knocked 2023 out of the park, so it should be no surprise that this vineyard’s iconic flagship wines are as good as they are this year. After all, we are talking about two of the most significant wines in the Victorian canon. As we mentioned earlier, the 2023 season offered plenty of challenges, but those difficulties are not at all evident in the glass. “The fruit quality was excellent,” winemaker Matt Holmes told us, “The wines have exceeded our expectations.” That’s putting it mildly, Matt―the wines are bloody great!

 

The 2023 S.R.H has more tautness and linearity than is typical for this wine, but not for lack of complexity and flavour. The new vintage of Serré is so pretty: lifted from the outset and highly aromatic with a full array of heady fruit, spice, earth and integrated oak aromas. Both will cellar with the best of them. The downside: the low yields this year mean there is precious little to go around. Do act quickly if you would like to secure some of these instant classics.

 

Our view and stellar reviews aside, it’s the opinion of Sally Hooper―estate owner and daughter of founder Stuart Reginald Hooper―that matters most to Holmes. “Sally’s the best judge of these wines, particularly the S.R.H,” he told us. “If she likes it, if she sees the standard and characters she expects to see in a great S.R.H., then that’s a big thumbs up for me.” Needless to say, Sally loves the 2023s. Indeed, the whole family believe the 2023 wines are among the best they have ever produced from each site. A fitting tribute to a special vineyard now celebrating its 50th year.

The Wines

Bannockburn S.R.H. Chardonnay 2023
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Bannockburn S.R.H. Chardonnay 2023

Organic. S.R.H is one of the finest single-site Chardonnays grown in Australia. Just 12 rows of P58 vines in the Olive Tree Hill vineyard go into S.R.H. Planted in 1976 by founder Stuart Reginald Hooper, these are the oldest Chardonnay vines at the Bannockburn estate and are firmly entrenched in the ancient marine sediments that form the bedrock in this area. Own-rooted and well-established in the centre of the plot, the vines face north with an east-west orientation. Maturity and diligent farming mean yields are never significant, particularly in seasons like 2023, where the average crop across the estate barely surpassed a tonne to the acre. With each passing year, these old vines seem to suck even more minerality from the earth, delivering a spine-tingling wash of salinity to support the intense flavour and texture for which this benchmark Chardonnay is known.

The fruit was picked over two passes in early March and pressed as whole bunches to tank, where it settled overnight. The must fermented in French hogsheads (33% new), and the wine remained on lees for 10 months with no stirring and 65% malolactic conversion. We don’t need to add much to Campbell and Erin’s reviews below. Let us just say it’s one of the most exciting young S.R.H. wines we have tasted: pure, taut, linear and a masterful expression of deep-rooted power and measured refinement.

“The intensity of flavour here is significant. This is a rocket of a wine. Grapefruit, lime, lemon curd, sweet peach, tinned pear and pineapple characters come wrapped in smoky-sweet cedarwood. Acidity, barley-and-lemon-drenched, is prominent too, in keeping with the power of the fruit. It needs time for certain, but this is quite a wine.”
95+ points, Campbell Mattinson, The Wine Front
“The 2023 SRH Chardonnay is textural and taut; it is bound in phenolics at this point, but clearly superb. The length of flavor shows this. The complexity shows this. It's a hugely impressive wine that speaks of white peach, green apples, green olive brine, white strawberries and white pepper. It's salty and a little chewy. This will be a seriously great wine—give it time. 13.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.”
96 points, Erin Larkin, The Wine Companion
“Light to mid straw-yellow hue; malt, straw/hay and nougat aromas; the palate is rich and full, mult-faceted and full of interest. A touch of Weetbix; buttery mid-palate richness. The flavour deep and layered, a lovely wine indeed: a classical chardonnay.”
95 points, The Real Review
Bannockburn S.R.H. Chardonnay 2023
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Bannockburn Serré Pinot Noir 2023 (1500ml)
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Bannockburn Serré Pinot Noir 2023 (1500ml)

Bannockburn Serré Pinot Noir 2023 (1500ml)
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