Jasper Morris’s quote—nabbed from his Instagram—neatly sums up Daniel Bouland’s 2022 release. Even Bouland himself struggled to find fault in his wines from what is an outstanding vintage for Beaujolais. “I’m not complaining,” he told us—a phrase you will not often hear from this notoriously self-critical grower. The main takeaway from the year is how fresh and racy the wines are, considering the vintage could be summarised as hot and dry. Unlike 2020, when the lack of water resulted in thick skins, little juice and deep, structured wines, 2022 was completely different. Although an August harvest once again, alcohol levels are lower than in 2020, and the fruit is more vibrant and balanced. The only clue to the nature of the year is how irresistible the wines already are. Bouland is renowned for producing superbly balanced wines even in these warmer years. 2017, 2018 and 2020 are splendid examples of this phenomenon. During our last visit, we found out one of his secrets. He has dug a little crater around the base of each trunk, making his vineyards look like Beaujolais’ answer to Lanzarote or Santorini! The idea is to capture as much water as possible before it rolls off Morgon’s free-draining granite. Bouland is a fastidious, even obsessive, farmer who spends most of his time in the vines; even so, this level of commitment is next level.Please note that three wines are only available in magnum this year. That should hardly be a problem given how pure, affordable and damn delicious the wines are. More than ever, the pricing sticks out a mile when you consider the quality (and potential longevity, if that is your thing). Pound for pound, these are arguably the best-value fine French reds we offer. But they are much more than that. Beaujolais lovers—purists or otherwise—are advised to fill their boots.