“2023 will be remembered as one of those great vintages,” says Tom McCarthy. “It was an exceptional year with perfect ripening conditions—there just wasn’t very much to ripen.” So, a rinse-and-repeat of the previous year, with poor flowering yet again dramatically reducing eventual crops. For bunches that made it, though, ripening was idyllically long and leisurely. The result was immaculate Pinot fruit of exceptional flavour intensity—perhaps even dialled up from 2022—not to mention acute varietal and site distinction. This alluring suite of Pinots rounds off an impressive trifecta for Quealy. Its exciting 2023 whites, released late last year, cleaned up at the recent Halliday Awards, with Feri Maris taking home the gong for Pinot Grigio of the Year. Then, last week, they launched the Turbul range, a gripping set of extended-maceration whites inspired by the iconic skinsy wines of Italy’s northeast (check these out if you haven’t already). McCarthy puts Quealy’s impressive trajectory with Pinot squarely down to uncompromising viticulture among its mature vines. “We’re working with the same vineyards year after year; this allows us to really dial into each site,” he told us. “We can nail the picking dates and avoid making any compromises.” No compromises and no false moves— this light-touch family knows how to leave things be. McCarthy moves the wines as little as possible to preserve freshness and allow each parcel to shine. And, in 2023, destemming was the go for ultimate transparency. “The fruit looked borderline perfect; I didn’t have the heart to go bunchy.” Fragrant, lithe and savoury, expect good and proper Mornington Pinot from an estate at the top of its game.