Domaine Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage La Guiraude 2019

Considered by many to be the benchmark for Crozes-Hermitage, the limited production La Guiraude is Graillot’s tête de cuvée—made only in vintages where it is felt there are some that exhibit particularly intense and age-worthy personalities. It’s a barrel selection, so the winemaking is the same as the classic Crozes, although the chosen casks are left for longer aging in both barrel and bottle. The Graillot’s are quick to point out that La Guiraude is not seen as necessarily a better wine than the domaine’s Crozes, instead it is typically more powerful and can require longer cellaring.

If 2019 was a year when hard work in the vineyards would be crucial to ensure healthy, balanced grapes, then this iconic domaine was up for the fight. To capture the freshness and precision he desired, Maxime Graillot harvested a little earlier than in 2018, “What I want is kind of crunchy, not jammy,” he says. Very similar to what we have seen from the Burgundies of this year, the 2019 La Guiraude is remarkably pure, vibrant and lifted (and only 13.5% abv). It shows intensity and depth, yet also demonstrates bright perfume, vineyard clarity and superb balance. You would never guess it to be a low-yielding, dry year.

Alongside this wine’s classic markers of bloody minerality, anise, black olive and ironstone, the 2019 is packed with ripe forest berries framed by plentiful tannins and chalky freshness. At once, silky and svelte yet also muscular and dense, there’s a hint of Hermitage going on this year; it’s a La Guiraude for the ages. If you are going to drink it young, grab the decanter, gather your finest friends and organise some appropriate food.