Equipo Navazos

Beyond Sherry—The Stunning La Bota Sherries & More

It’s been fifteen years since Eduardo Ojeda and Jesús Barquín burst onto the scene with their limited edition, “mind-blowing” [Jamie Goode] La Bota series. Sourced from the region’s rarest, most significant (and hitherto neglected) solera systems, Equipo Navazos swiftly became the cult producer for quality Sherry lovers, knowledgeable sommeliers and indie retailers worldwide.

Barquín is one of Spain’s leading experts and writers on Sherry, while Ojeda, one of Jerez’s leading tasters and blenders, is the technical director for the Estévez group, owners of Valdespino and La Guita Manzanilla. What these two do not know about Sherry is probably not worth knowing. The origins of the project date to late 2005, Ojeda and Barquín were tasting through some 400 casks of Manzanilla at the bodega of Sánchez Ayala in Sanlucar. As Andrew Jefford (The Coming of Jesús, Decanter) recounts in his story, one particular wine sparked the project we love so much today.

“After they had cantered through the Manzanillas, they started tasting other things in the cellar and discovered a ‘shrinking’ Amontillado solera which had been untouched and unrefreshed for 20 years. “The casks were beautiful,” Barquín remembers. “But since there was no market for Amontillado, the owner had instructed that instead of refreshing the angel’s share, the solera should be topped up from existing stocks, so the original 74 casks were now 69 or 65, I can’t remember.” Forty years of crisis had left Jerez and Sanlúcar littered with treasures of this sort. That was when the idea dawned on Barquín: why not buy a cask? He and Ojeda could then sell the bottles to their friends.”

Guided by their vast knowledge and unparalleled contacts, Navazos has assembled arguably the finest offering of Sherries in the market, while also promoting the great historical and cultural traditions that lie behind Sherry and the Jerez region

Since that first cask of Amontillado—named simply Bota de Amontillado No.1 after the short story by Edgar Allan Poe, ‘The Cask of Amontillado’—each successive, limited-edition bottling has been numbered accordingly and bottled En Rama: straight from the cask. The wines are selected for sheer quality as well as their distinct personalities. Initially, these bottlings were intended only for a select group of friends and professionals, but the response to the wines was so enthusiastic that it became evident that something important could, and should, come of this idea—namely, Equipo Navazos could remind the world just how great Sherry could be.

Guided by their vast knowledge and unparalleled contacts, Navazos has gone on to assemble arguably the finest offering of Sherries in the market, while also promoting the great historical and cultural traditions that lie behind Sherry and the Jerez region. These are all one-off bottlings, and once the bottles for each La Bota release are spoken for, there are no more. Our allocations remain very small and most often sell out before general release.

Thankfully, the Navazos story does not end with the hard-to-source La Bota wines. In consultation with a small core of importers (including Bibendum Wine Co.) Navazos also bottles a trio of more accessible yet still unfiltered En Rama sherries under the Equipo Navazos label. ‘I Think’ is a wonderfully potent and briny Manzanilla from the La Guita stable; the Fino ‘En Rama’ is drawn from a gold-standard solera and includes fruit from the ‘Montrachet’ of Jerez—Macharnudo Alto; and the Gran Solera is a stunning Jerezano style P.X. aged for over 25 years. These are shipped freshly bottled, in more significant quantities and positioned at more accessible pricing. Also remarkable is Navazos’ white wine project, inspired by a period in Andalucían wine history before fortification was the norm.

Finally, for some time now Navazos has turned its attention to sourcing some extraordinary examples of Spanish spirits in collaboration with New York spirits guru Nicolas Palazzi. The unique range of La Bota Whiskey, Rum, Brandy and Gin stem at least in part from this fertile collaboration. Most are single-cask and have spent much of their lives aging in large Sherry bota in Jerez de la Frontera.

The Range

Equipo Navazos I Think Manzanilla Saca March 2024 (375ml)
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Equipo Navazos I Think Manzanilla Saca March 2024 (375ml)

15% ABV. From the stellar Equipo Navazos stable, this Manzanilla comes from a 60-strong cask selection made by Navazos founders Jesus Barquín and Eduardo Ojeda that was plucked from the production of La Guita, one of the most famous (and finest) Manzanilla producers (and where Ojeda oversees production in his role as the technical director of José Estévez). As always, this current bottling was drawn from its barrels en rama (directly). This is how Manzanilla used to be bottled before sterile filtering became the standard in Jerez.  The current batch was bottled in March 2024. It’s a wonderfully potent and briny yet seductive wine with a deep, silky texture and plenty of sustained, tangy drive. Four and a half years under flor and gentle bottling direct from cask has also delivered a vibrant orange/gold colour and some nutty development. It’s a much deeper colour than most other Manzanillas on the market (which are typically very clear due to their youth and sterile filtration). That makes this unique in comparison to other Manzanillas in its price range. It remains light years ahead of more common, conventional Manzanillas.

“I tasted a more recent bottling of the Manzanilla I Think for the Australian market. It was filled in March 2024, so it's one year older than the one I also tasted next to it. The NV Manzanilla I Think (March 2024) was fortified to 15% alcohol and has a pH of 3.21 with 4.79 grams of acidity. It's expressive and with some volume and, dare I say it, creaminess, but it's serious, pungent and balanced.”
92 points, 92+ points, Luis Gutiérrez, The Wine Advocate
“Pale straw-green; a mown grass, hedgerow, nutty bouquet. The palate is vibrant, fresh and crunchy, with a classic dry finish, lingering long, with no phenolics, and a fresh breeze aftertaste.”
95 points, James Halliday, the Weekend Australian Magazine
Equipo Navazos I Think Manzanilla Saca March 2024 (375ml)
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Equipo Navazos La Bota 106 Vinagre de Jerez Gran Reserva Bota NO
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Equipo Navazos La Bota 106 Vinagre de Jerez Gran Reserva Bota NO

Saca of July 2021. Antonio Páez Lobato is known as the ‘King of Vinegar’. A born entrepreneur, at the age of 23 he joined his family Bodega and set about commercialising his region’s famous vinegar, Vinagre de Jerez. Selecting vinegar soleras from the likes of Sandeman, González Byass, Lacave Ruiz Tagle and Osborne, Lobato put Jerez Vinegar on the international map, and his work was instrumental in getting this unique product its own Denominación de Origen. For some years Navazos toyed with the idea of bottling one of the few very old vinegar casks that Lobato’s house Páez Morilla continues to cellar as treasures. They had doubts, however; that despite the age, intensity and sheer quality of the liquid, there would be enough interest in a product like this. In June 2021 they bottled 1,200 half bottles from a single old oak cask for La Bota 106 Vinagre de Jerez Gran Reserva Bota NO.Made using the traditional Criaderas y Solera method, this incomparable Vinagre de Jerez Gran Reserva was made with wine that was already almost 15 years old, an age to which Barquín estimates another forty years must be added. Its acetic grade is above 11, which is outrageous, and it maintains almost 3.5% alcohol.Vinegars like this are often used to give character to younger vinegars, however, this one has been bottled as is, without any dilution: an essence of true Sherry vinegar. It is, in Barquín’s words, “a spectacular vinegar, ideal for perfuming dishes with just a few drops”. Normally, a minimal amount will suffice (even with a dropper) as a dressing and it is even advisable to not add it directly, rather prepare a vinaigrette by mixing it with oil, salt and whatever else is appropriate. When age, provenance, and quality, not to mention how long it will last once opened, are considered the price is more than reasonable. Think of it as gastronomic gold.

Vinegars like this are often used to give character to younger vinegars, however, this one has been bottled as is, without any dilution: an essence of true Sherry vinegar. It is, in Barquín’s words, “a spectacular vinegar, ideal for perfuming dishes with just a few drops”. Normally, a minimal amount will suffice (even with a dropper) as a dressing and it is even advisable to not add it directly, rather prepare a vinaigrette by mixing it with oil, salt and whatever else is appropriate. When age, provenance, and quality, not to mention how long it will last once opened, are considered the price is more than reasonable. Think of it as gastronomic gold.

Equipo Navazos La Bota 106 Vinagre de Jerez Gran Reserva Bota NO
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Equipo Navazos La Bota 95 Amontillado Sanlúcar
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Equipo Navazos La Bota 95 Amontillado Sanlúcar

Since the 1980s and until around 15 years ago, the Amontillados of Rainera P. Marín were constructed with different soleras within the cellar: from the third criadera of Amontillado; to the little shrine of 1/3 Viejísima; and finally including solera 1/10 M. Pda. Vieja. After 2007, the greater part of these traditionally labelled stocks was strictly restructured. The finest and deepest butts were selected, and their contents were refreshed with true (and unfortified) Manzanilla Pasada to create an Amontillado solera that was slightly over 100-butt strong.Nearly 10 years ago, Navazos selected a dozen of these butts for their release No. 37. More than half that wine was put back into casks for additional aging, and this is what we have here (the estimated average age of this wine is around 25 years). It has kept most of its characteristic freshness and notes of aromatic herbs, while baked sweet potato and caramel characters show more intensely than ever. It is a delicious Amontillado—extremely dry, but also long, serious and complex. No. 37 was given a 19 by Ms Robinson and 95 from the Guía Peñín. This release is markedly more complex and yet there is no loss of freshness. It is best enjoyed in a large white wine glass at around 15ºC. An excellent aperitif on its own, it also works beautifully with powerful meat-based entrees, and is also a surprisingly good accompaniment to spicy Asian food, and of course, a wide variety of cheeses (both hard and soft).

“The following bottling of the Amontillado 58 from 2016 is the NV La Bota de Amontillado 95 Sanlúcar, a saca from November 2019 that is already sold out. It's not a very old wine, around 30 years of age. It has a sharp profile and keeps the freshness because the barrels are kept quite full. It has bitter and iodine flavors, with pungency and length.”
94 points, Luis Gutiérrez, The Wine Advocate
Equipo Navazos La Bota 95 Amontillado Sanlúcar
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Equipo Navazos La Bota 43 Brandy
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Equipo Navazos La Bota 43 Brandy

Bottled in 2013. This stunning spirit is the follow-up bottling to La Bota No. 29 and the second of three barrels to be bottled two years apart. The age of the liquid at bottling was 13 years, with the last three years of aging undertaken in an old Manzanilla cask of Rey Fernando de Castilla in El Puerto de Santa María. This edition is from a single cask and the totality of the butt has been bottled, so that each of the 500ml bottles is indeed a jewel of limited production and availability, and strictly unrepeatable.Like its predecessor, this must be tasted to be believed. So floral, so pure, so complex and so intense, this is a spirit that will amaze (and possibly trouble!) even the finest Cognac producers. Compared to its sibling No. 29, edition number 43 is two years older. Its finesse is evident in a side-by-side comparison—it’s more harmonious and less marked by fruit presence (however, if tasted next to the best Brandy de Jerez of other producers, both 29 and 43 share a remarkable degree of sophistication as opposed to spirits with traditionally enhanced sweetness and intensity).

Like its predecessor, this must be tasted to be believed. So floral, so pure, so complex and so intense, this is a spirit that will amaze (and possibly trouble!) even the finest Cognac producers. Compared to its sibling No. 29, edition number 43 is two years older. Its finesse is evident in a side-by-side comparison—it’s more harmonious and less marked by fruit presence (however, if tasted next to the best Brandy de Jerez of other producers, both 29 and 43 share a remarkable degree of sophistication as opposed to spirits with traditionally enhanced sweetness and intensity).

Equipo Navazos La Bota 43 Brandy
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Equipo Navazos La Bota 117 Amontillado Navazos
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Equipo Navazos La Bota 117 Amontillado Navazos

Saca de October 2022. This iconic bottling can trace its ancestry right back to the first ever La Bota wine: La Bota de Amontillado No.1. Since that time, we have been regaled by those Sanlúcar wines numbered 9, 37, 58 and 95. This time there is a new source. Barquín explains that for La Bota 117, they travelled from Sanlúcar to Montilla—"looking for something new and because we had to take advantage of the opportunity of a spectacularly fine and lively Amontillado, delicious, fluid and at the same time with much character.”Sourced from the venerable Bodega of Pérez Barquero, it is a wine of more than 20 years of age from Altos de Moriles. The solera started life as a Fino and during its first oxidative stage in a prestigious winery in Lucena. This was followed by its definitive period of aging at the Bodega of Pérez Barquero. In the Montilla tradition, the wine has never been fortified, and its alcohol content clocks in below 18% which contributes to its freshness on the palate.It’s a wonderfully gastronomic wine that harmonises with a wide variety of dishes, as well as being a delicious glass in itself. It is best enjoyed in a large white wine glass at around 11ºC and 13ºC. An excellent aperitif, it also works beautifully with powerful meat-based entrées and is also a surprisingly good accompaniment to spicy Asian food and, of course, a wide variety of cheeses (both hard and soft).

“The NV La Bota de Amontillado Montilla 117 is a new Amontillado from Montilla-Moriles that was never bottled before. Selected from the cellars of Pérez-Barquero, the wine is between 25 to 30 years of average age, not fortified but bottled at 20% alcohol from pure concentration from evaporation, as the Fino that is the base for this wine was never fortified, which is the tradition in Montilla. It's a medium-age Amontillado with textbook characteristics and the evolution of the Fino Amontillado but with some 10 to 12 years more. It's nutty, pungent, intense and sapid, with a saline, iodine twist.”
96 points, Luis Gutiérrez, The Wine Advocate
Equipo Navazos La Bota 117 Amontillado Navazos
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Equipo Navazos La Bota 116 De Oloroso Montilla
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Equipo Navazos La Bota 116 De Oloroso Montilla

Saca de October 2022. Co-owner, Rafael Cordoba, has been caring for his vineyards and cellar for decades and is considered a master at obtaining truly outstanding musts, both yema (first press) and colour (second press). It’s with these second press musts, locally called “vino de color”, that Pérez Barquero’s winemaker, Juan Márquez, uses to produce his Olorosos. No. 116 La Bota de Oloroso “Montilla” comes from a selection of casks from the Solera Diógenes, located in the third row at the Pérez Barquero’s Bodega El Puente. The main difference from the No. 74 is that this time, all the casks selected belong to the solera itself, while for the previous release, Navazos picked some vessels from younger criaderas as well. This fact, together with the elapsed time and the fact that the withdrawals from these casks have been small, explains why this wine is almost five years older than its predecessor. Its estimated average age is, therefore, close to 35 years!

“The NV La Bota de Oloroso 116 Montilla follows the wines numbered 74 and 46, from four barrels they selected. It's another textbook example of the category, perhaps a little drier and more vertical, with Pedro Ximenez aromas and hints of peaches, varnish and hazelnuts. It comes from a solera of Pedro Ximénez wines from the cellars of Pérez-Barquero in Montilla that has been aged oxidatively for an average of 30 years. I find finesse, velvet and glycerin in this wine, which makes it closer to the character of a Palo Cortado. This summer 2022 bottling is 3,000 bottles.”
94 points, Luis Gutiérrez, The Wine Advocate
Equipo Navazos La Bota 116 De Oloroso Montilla
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“The wines by Equipo Navazos are a cultural contribution of the highest importance.” Juancho Asenjo, “La Sobremesa” at www.elmundovino.com

“Equipo Navazos make mindblowing Sherries. I’m drinking one at the moment, and it’s a life-enhancing experience.” Jamie Goode, www.wineanorak.com

“They are not cheap. But then nor is Grand Cru burgundy.” Jancis Robinson MW, Sherry as Montrachet – revelations. jancisrobinson.com

“Every wine region needs a few extraordinary individuals to champion its cause, and Barquín is one.” Andrew Jefford, Decanter

Country

Spain

Primary Region

Jerez, Andalucía

People

Owners: Eduardo Ojeda and Jesús Barquín

Availability

National

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