Elegance over Power: A New Chapter for one of the Greatest Estates in the Southern Rhône
Oratoire is simply one of the greatest Estates in the Southern Rhône, a pioneer in biodynamics; low sulphur; the retention of old vines; and a producer of stupendous wines of depth, intensity, purity and terroir expression
While this Domaine can trace its winegrowing lineage back to 1692, it was tenth generation Frédéric and François Alary who turned Oratoire Saint-Martin into one of the most exciting estates in the Southern Rhône. A pioneer in biodynamics and low sulphur additions, all the while retaining a stock of old vines, this producer’s wines almost single-handedly elevated Cairanne to Cru status in 2016—putting it on a par with Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas and Crozes-Hermitage. Nearing retirement age and with their children taking other career paths, Frédéric and François Alary began looking for a like-minded buyer in 2019. They found their new keyholder in the Abeille-Fabre family, owners of the impressive Château Mont-Redon in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Taking over the reigns, in 2019, Mont-Redon has, according to main man Pierre Fabre, got hold of the “best terroir in Cairanne”.
The vineyards of Oratoire Saint Martin are hand tended and managed organically with biodynamic preparations. The vineyards are regularly ploughed, with some plots done by horse. This is a costly, time-consuming and difficult practice but it is one that offers a range of benefits over the tractor alternative. Very low crops also play their part, with the Oratoire vineyards typically yielding less than 30hl/ha on average.
In the winery, large wooden foudres, as well as two egg-shaped fermenters (one concrete, one in wood) and a gravity-fed cellar, allows the fruit to be handled gently. There are no additions and very little sulphur is used. Of course, what truly makes these wines so good are fantastic vineyard holdings high up on the hill behind Cairanne and the continuous ownership of these sites adds to the quality factor—they have been in the Alary family's hands since the 1600s. Most Southern Rhône wines come from vineyards on the flats whilst Oratoire’s are on the slopes near Rasteau and look out to Gigondas and down at Châteauneuf-du-Pape. They have a soil profile rich in limestone and clay which lends elegance and complexity to these full-bodied, powerful reds.
In Oratoire you get arguably the finest producer in Cairanne. If you accept the often-heard claim that Cairanne is the supreme Village in the Côtes du Rhône (and we do!) then you know we are offering something special. In short, these are delicious and very naturally made wines that offer outstanding value year in, and year out.
There’s more red than black on the nose, with the fruit offset by chalky, mineral scents. Driven by citrussy drive, the palate fuses red fruit sweetness with black olive and an amaro-like lift, finishing with finely polished tannins and impressive chalky length. Such is the balance and digestibility, it’s already approachable, though will be at its best ten years from now.
Expect layers of black fruits with drive and clarity, a slick of creamy tannin and a lingering cool, bright tone on the finish. It needs a little time to fuse and unfurl, but in the meantime, a T-Bone steak and a decanter are your friends.
This is layered, complex and confidently full-bodied in the best spirit of this benchmark wine. Opening with a hint of reduction, the palate is long and tongue-coating, and embedded with deep citrus, aniseed and sweet herbal flavours (not dissimilar to the scent of the local gorse that frames the vineyards). The finish is powerful and long, underpinned by a nip of food-friendly phenolics. There is so much going on; you want to pour it into a decanter and see it evolve as you contemplate the bottle. We’ve said many a time that we know of very few Rhône whites that can match the depth, complexity and sheer presence on offer here. The price is misleading in the best sense.
“This is possibly the best domaine in the entire Côtes du Rhône-Villages area. The wines are full, intense and concentrated, surprisingly sophisticated. At less than half the price of a top Châteauneuf this domaine offers splendid value for money.” Clive Coates MW
“Domain de l'Oratoire St-Martin is one of the Southern Rhône Valley's most conspicuous overachievers, making wines that are far above their humble appellations. All of their wines go into the bottle with no filtration and only a light fining. This is the type of estate that brings smiles to consumers who happen upon their wines. They are reasonably priced and qualitatively equivalent to wines selling at two or three times the price.” Robert Parker
“Leading name, STGT (soil-to-glass-transfer) leanings, highly skilled commitment to quality in vineyard and cellar, with the ability to adapt to whatever a vintage throws at them.” John Livingstone-Learmonth, drinkrhone.com
“…the wines remain an inspiring picture of balance and harmony amid a region of heat and turmoil.” The Wine Advocate
Country
France
Primary Region
Southern Rhône
People
Winemakers: Pierre Fabre & Geoffrey Guigue
Availability
National